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According to an inside source at Fluidampr, they are FINALLY releasing a harmonic damper for the Coyote starting this week or next week. Part number 700232 and MSRP $630.70. It'll take a minute for the usual suspects (Summit, Lethal, etc) to have some for sale, but this is a MUCH better...

Okay the software said I couldn't update the device without restoring my car to stock form, sooooooo I didn't do it. Not sure what the hell all that is about.

Bingo, thanks!

Awesome, any chance you have a part number for that? I'm not having much luck finding one on ebay now.

Is the "initiated rev when pressing on the clutch" a feature that can be turned off, like the "gear shift hang"?

Okay so I had my tuner change the gear ratios and remove the gear shift hang, I didn't realize I could have them change the VSS also. What do they need to change it to? Edit: I think I found it. Looks like the output on the T56 is 12 pulses/revolution and the MT82 is 36, so either I keep the...

So I decided to delete the reverse lockout solenoid and use an RDE lockout detent instead. Since The car uses wheel speed for speedometer signal, can't I now just wire the reverse light switch back to the OE harness and eliminate the Bowler "all-in-one" bullshit all together?

I've got about the same positioning with my rear trans mount to the crossmember, so I don't think that's your problem. I also have the engine lowering mounts.

No? Okay, I guess I'll update it then.

I got my car dyno tuned a couple years back with a BDX purchased from the tuner, but I seem to recall people saying at some point not to update the device, like there was a bad update out there or something? Anybody know anything about that? I have a new tune to flash to the car, but there...

Is the solution to the rev hang as simple as disabling something in the tune, or is it more involved than that? I have a custom dyno tune, need to get my tuner to email me a tune with the revised gear ratios, but I need to get rid of the damn rev hang also.

You can drive the car and put 93 in when it's down, just have to keep your foot out of it. Don't "lug" the motor and don't do any WOT pulls.

Pretty interested in this. Someone needs to hook up a dial indicator with a max function and see how much that thing actually moves. Doesn't look right, that's for sure. Aluminum doesn't have great fatigue properties, so cracking after a hundred thousand cycles like that could be a concern.

One piece carbon fiber QA1 from Modern Driveline. Zero vibration issues. Spendy, but I'm happy I went that route.

Do you need a BAP or would a DW415 be enough? I'm using FIC 1000s, 2nd gen motor

The OE style throwout shown is a constant contact, spring assisted style, so you need it to be in contact with the fingers and most of the way compressed as-installed to ensure it can extend through its full range of motion (limited by the volume of the MC) without over-extending and pushing...

I'd bet you have more throw than you need, looks like 3/8"-1/2" of travel. Dual disc clutches tend to require less travel than stock, so with the OE release bearing and OE clutch MC you should have plenty. I don't recall exactly what the OE throw distance is, but I went with a Tilton HRB...

Just out of curiosity, what fluid/lube were you running before, and what will you be using going forward? Amsoil ATF?

That's interesting, I know Tick has a really good reputation. How well indexed was your bellhousing to start with? Tremec specifies a really tight tolerance for parallelism and concentricity for high RPM applications. I'm working from memory, but I believe it's less than 0.0005" (0.001" TIR)...