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Replying to 2 year ago self…. Yes, it works great! :cwl:

My entire rear suspension is done except for Diff bushings. The only thing that was causing any noise was my driver side RLCA bearing, after I installed the BK055s. The suspect bearings just bind up when fully torqued down to 166 ft./lbs. As a test yesterday, I put the back end of car on my...

The real problem is the bearing itself sucks (or bad batch of bearings that have made their way into our cars). I pulled the arm out and shaved my spacers and verified they can no longer physically touch when the bolt is torqued to 166 ft/lbs. I did this last fall at the onset of cooler weather...

The back off method works perfectly and does get rid of the clicking and/or bouncing. The bolt is not going anywhere, even at the lowered torque setting. What I also did (not mentioned previously) when I lowered the torque of the bolt, I put a nut on the back side of the bolt that extends out...

I know right.:crackup: I thought this was universally known that 10 speed owns the manual. Not even close!

No trouble tuning at all. Wengerd took the time and got the throttle body data direct from VMP. Idles and drives like stock before and after the blower. I can post the first start up video clip with the ESS I made the other day. Fired right up and idled nice. I have not driven it with the ESS...

Just dropping this here. Just finished up this install of ESS G3X, 100mm pulley, G4 cooler, Lethal triple pump fuel system, E85 Wengerd tune, Ported CJ, VMP 137 Mono TB, and Stage 2 Comp Cams.

1.62 was best 60ft launching off idle on the beadlocks. 1.65 on VMS, same launch off idle at same track. No doubt the transbrake hit would have been 1.5x or better if halfshaft would have survived. It deadhooked hard and felt like a manual on slicks.

Had the same issue with same VMS wheels a few years back, even at 17 lbs cold on ET Street Rs. Switched to Forgestar D5 beadlocks and even swapped over the same exact tires that were slipping and I snapped an upgraded halfshaft (won't name the brand) on the very first transbrake hit. Tires have...

Makes sense. My stocks have a dark smoke overlay across the entire thing, including the fogs since I don't ever use those. I only did the mod just to prevent the amber parking lamp at night. Nothing more.

It's great that it also works on the Diode Dynamics turn lamps but I don't see the point in purchasing an aftermarket setup and not use all of its features. Just do the mod on the stock assembly for free.

I took it all apart and swapped all buttons, paddles, and trim pieces over to the new carbon wheel. All I am left with is the 4 heater wires. However, looks like I may be in luck because what I believe to be the power/ground from the car are RED/BLACK and my new heated element also is RED/BLACK...

Correct. I just need the stock wire colors for power/ground at the steering wheel connection pins that I have to solder/connect my new heated element into the stock wiring.

Installing a new carbon steering wheel that retains the heated steering wheel function in my 2019. The steering wheel did not come with any instructions on which wires to tap into for power/ground under the airbag. Hoping someone had either the correct wire colors handy or even the wiring...

No, at least not in it's unmodified form. You would have to modify the elbow to work with an oval TB inlet used on a CJ manifold. Better off just selling the Roush and use the proceeds towards a CJ-compatible intake/tubing.

Mine is 32 degrees all the way up to 8,000+ on E85 without any knocking. My car has not had 93 in it since 2019 so have no idea what the timing is with that.

Just unhook the muffler/tips from the hanger and let it droop down to the ground. Then take a large box-end wrench for leverage and reverse loop it over the end of the hanger rod and then just bend it slightly down and then put muffler/tip back up into the hanger and into position and check...

I have what you seek... also a 2019 except I use the stock injectors. No reason to put 1050X until you go boost. You will have to upgrade your whole fuel system anyway and installing injectors is super easy compared to what it takes to install the cams.

Update: After over 2 years with the BK055 bearings, I finally got to the root cause of the snapping/clicking noise. On my car, I isolated the noise to the driver side and I previously explained earlier in this thread that I stopped the noise backing off bolt torque from the the 166 ft/lbs. to...