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You're misinterpreting the graph possibly. The stock throttle is non-linear, but, yes, reaches 100% WOT when fully depressed. The JMS reaches WOT at about 60% if set to "100%", but is linear. The primary value I see is the linearity of the JMS. The stock pedal is really badly non linear.

If you do that and get good results (or otherwise), I'd love to hear about it!

I love my JMS and run it at 100% always, but you aren't going to make the engine rev faster with it. The signals are always sent immediately, and the intake valve responds faster than the limits of human perception. Other mechanical factors are limiting your ability to rev faster. I've noticed...

Where are the fuses? Are they easy to get to? What else does pulling those fuses disrupt? Do they reset the time and the track apps?

Happened again to me yesterday. I went for the "master reset" which looked like it worked, but didn't fix it for more than 5 mins. Then I tried the "hold the power button down and hold the right seek" button method. Didn't appear to do anything at all. Went for the car battery which fixed it...

Thanks for your input. Does anyone else have any suggestions? Perhaps lithium grease?

Ping? :)

I have about 8,000 miles on my car, and I'm loving it. Can't wait for the north east to really warm up. One thing I'd really like to learn more about is how to remove interior rattles and squeaks. I don't have anything really bad yet, but there are one or two that come and go. I think they...

I tried following that guide. I didn't find it very helpful.

Dumb question: where are the fuses?

Right, only, they didn't change it.

Someone needs to let Ford know about testing. Sometimes, you think somethings working, and then you test it, and then you realize it's not working. That's what testing is for.

Always nice to be able to use the radio without pulling fuses or disconnecting the battery!

For the first time, while driving and listening to a podcast (I do this on my commute every day since I bought my car), my phone disconnected from my car. I reconnected, and it disconnected almost immediately. I rebooted my phone: same issue. I pulled over and shut my car off and pulled the door...

Electric signals can't be sped up by using additional components. They travel along wires at the speed of light. I love the mod. Don't get me wrong. Best info was in the PDF linked a while ago. It adjusts the sensitivity of the throttle, shortens the distance to WOT, and makes the response...

I asked about that exact point in post #800 (physics and all). The current theory is a lack of appropriate isolation in this Mustang, not that there is something broken in my car.

Vid here demonstrating the issue: [ame] Watch at 3:09 ( ) and you'll actually see the whole image vibrate as the car lurches with the camera mounted to the proclip.

Agree. I'm just confused by this interaction. Clutch in and at a standstill; not drive line lash. Drive line has no kinetic energy at a standstill, so can't lash you. Got it. I'm going to make a vid tonight.

One minute almost all RWD card have the characteristic and it's almost impossible to engineer around and we're dull for not realizing this and accepting that it's not a bug, the next minute another V8 RWD car driver wouldn't experience it and we're just dull for not understanding how different...

Uh, you did just say it was a normal characteristic in almost all RWDs. Now a previous gen mustang is an invalid comparison?