Search results

Stainless element is no good. Get the microglass element. Your fuel injectors will thank you.

Not all cars will be able to hit 1000 e85 on just 2 450 pumps, it depends on what is in your favor. Higher compression ratio (more efficiently converts fuel to torque), displacement and good cylinder heads that allow you do it at lower boost pressure (keeps fuel system pressure lower thus fuel...

Ya most turbo cars, or all of them that I can think of right now, use a return style system from the factory. Lower boost applications can do 700whp e85 with a single 450 with 6an, we can get that from high compression 6 cylinders. But at 45psi boost and especially with lower compression too...

The factory lines could support 700-800 if all else was ideal, but it's not. None of it is. The stock pump found inside the stock fuel pump module is already a good pump. I don't have a flow chart for it but if a Walbro 450 is an upgrade at all it's not going to be a huge one. So you're looking...

A stretch? :doh: more like just getting started. :headbang: charts attached below so you can plug in different boost levels and see how it adds up.

Allow me to correct this concern. He has a 8AN stainless hardpipe, which is typical for well in excess of 900whp. Forget the countless cars already making well over 1000 with a 8AN or even stock 3/8 pipes (6AN equivalent), the data to see why for yourself is easy: Say your base fuel pressure...

I have 21,500 miles on the car. Installed the Whipple with first oil change (about 3000 miles). Car was tuned to 815whp E85 with the 3.5" pulley quickly after completing the install. TSS OPG and crank sprocket are still sitting on the shelf. At this rate I am thinking I will wait until I build...

If you install it to the pressure side of the fuel system, you could put a gauge on it. If you install the drain kit to the return side (if you have a return kit) than you wouldnt be able to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (and get a meaningful reading)

Ive found the NT05R and ET Street R to hook awesome for 1000-1500 miles or so. Then the tread surface seems to break down and they are no good (tread depth barely worn, they probably still have 5-8000 miles left in tread DEPTH, they just dont hook any more). So if you asked me in the first 1000...

:crazy: on par with you're game of grammar, wouldnt you say?

It doesn't sound like you have ruined your car yet. And now that you are conscious of the potential to accelerate the wear on your clutch or synchronizers by using practices that require greater care and technique, you will most likely get many more years of service from your drivetrain.

The taller the gearing, the more slippage required to get the vehicle moving. Period.

That is not entirely accurate. You are accelerating the wear on your 4th gear synchros to shift from 1st to 4th unless you take a conscious effort to shift slowly and manually assist in rev-matching. You could argue that you are preserving 2nd and 3rd gear synchros though.

You just are not noticing, but the clutch has to slip more to get the car moving in a higher gear. Its simply the nature of the mechanics. For an exaggerated example of it, try taking off from a standstill in 4th gear. I bet you will notice that you are having to slip it much more to get moving...

Side note, I carry a spare belt and the tools to change it with me now. I never considered it until my belt broke, how the coyote water pump is on the accessory belt. It just happens that all my previous cars had the water pump on the timing chain/belt and thus I was momentarily confused when...

i spit out the belt once from going on/off throttle a few times in a row at about 7000rpm. Not something I would usually do, ill spare you the explanation. But none the less, I believe when you engine decel, the belt load switches sides on the tensioner and then when you tap back on the throttle...

I can fuel starve my car on the street at about 1/3 tank. I can imagine that the greater acceleration forces at the track would demand at least a 1/2 tank for a safe, starvation free pass. I second the notion for 1/2 tank minimum.

Youre right, an air leak in the intake system could cause a genuine lean idle since air would be entering the system un-metered behind the MAF. Good call. That is probably what Lund is referring to.

Your car is gorgeous. I never would have thought that wrap would look so good until seeing it done.

Awesome results, and thanks for sharing. I would just recommend creating a signature with your major mods breakdown and dyno results - I know I was curious and it would probably help.