from what i've been reading, multiple people seem to have had success with just doing the head studs as long as they aren't looking for more than 400 - 425 whp (with the supporting bolt on mods of course)
i'm in the same boat as OP. i could either pay the $$ and have the head studs done, as i'm...
that's a good one. also would be nice to remember drive mode, traction control enabled/disabled
it does remember steering feel but oddly enough not the others
sorry i may not have worded it the best. i didn't run the alert wire into the doors, my LEDs are on the interior of the a frame pillar, similar to Bull Run
he mentioned that he had removed the rear seat and ran the alert wires into the factory loom that runs along the floor. i didn't do this, i...
i did not bash any tuners. i just stated what most tuners are saying is the safe limit for the factory block, and provided a link to a well known EB tuner as a reference
if you put that turbo on, it's probably wise to not go above the stated figures without risking blowing your engine. build...
lots of ecobooms had turbo upgrades. big turbos for the ecoboost have been around for a while. main failure seems to be a crack in the wall between cylinders 2 and 3, a bent/broken rod, or a head gasket failure
custom tune is a given. if you are doing any mods to your EB, it's one of the better...
there's no question you will blow your engine to pieces if you just bolt that turbo on to your factory block and try to make it ~500 whp. pretty much all tuners are limiting the factory block to 400 whp, and even still, it seems like you should only be running that if you are using meth/e85/e30...
swapped in the recommended LEDs today and it worked like a charm, tested out on the highway and everything is working as expected. i kind of cheated for the alert wires, i removed the door trim and ran them through that, then put the trim back on rather than taking apart and running them through...
thanks!
and i just saw the big discussion on this on page 2. was going off of the word doc and missed it. thankfully having the exact same issue as others had, looks like it should be an easy fix
thanks, appreciate it. did you buy them locally somewhere or order them online?
i had bought thus cheapo kit:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XPV4CSH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
i just swapped out red for blue (3.0 - 3.2V) however i still get the ground fault for both...
VIN thing was just me reading it wrong, so all good there. This morning I soldered up some LEDs, and ran them to the front of the car in a temporary fashion. I ground the LEDs to the 13 mm bolts on the door frames. when i start it up, i get the LEDs blinking a few times while everything...
Seeing some weirdness in forscan. I get DTCs for the sodl and sodr, showing a short or open connection to battery. I'm sure that they are properly grounded in the trunk
I can pull up the modules in Forscan and they show the wrong VINs. I attempt to update them and all writes fail. the writes...
Spent a few hours on this today and I'm almost done. Your install guide is great by the way
I've got both modules installed and wired up, and made the necessary forscan changes. Not seeing any errors in the dash, the modules were throwing errors prior to making the forscan changes. Wife called...
nice times man
i recently installed a vargas stage 2 as well, though i'm still on the factory block so i'm going with a very conservative tune for now. who'd you get your built engine from, or did you do it yourself?
all my parts have arrived and i'm putting everything together now. going to pre-wire the harnesses before taking the bumper apart so it's a bit quicker
as an FYI, you can save yourself a few bucks by buying these screws at home depot or something instead of ordering the OEM ones at 10 bucks a...
i do on the weekends. i also let it run for 5 mins or so to let it warm up, and let it run for another 1 - 2 mins before turning it off when i park
warm up/warm down is also probably contributing to those bad numbers, as it's running and not moving