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For anyone else wondering, all you would need there is a 12v to 5v USB converter which you can get off Amazon or eBay for $6. It should come with solid wire, so you just strip it back a bit and stick the wires into the back of the mirror connector in the appropriate pins. The converter has a USB...

Finally got around to messing around with this. Used an Arduino Pro Mini (5v) and a Freematics OBD2 UART adapter. I used a small OLED display for testing. Tested engine RPM and speed and worked great. Should be really easy to hook up an RGB LED strip and control it based on RPM. Stay tuned

That's how I have mine connected as well, though I made my own wires for tapping into the connector. Works great.

Did the NAV install for Sync 2/MFT using the F150 speadsheet and it worked flawlessly. :headbang: :cheers:

It's for saving/recalling custom seat and mirror positions. When you get in the car and start it, your seat will return to it's previous position (it moves back when you get out), as well as your mirrors. You can set presets with those buttons.

Well played. I think we can end this thread now. :lol:

That's always tricky. Some cars can get hot enough that even some cheap injection molded stuff doesn't hold up. Polycarbonate would probably be the filament of choice, as it has a much higher glass transition temp than pretty much all other filaments (150C/302F), including ABS, PETG, and nylon...

Cool project. Any updates? I have a buttload of Arduino stuff and 2 rolls of ws2812b RGB LED's and 2 3D printers. Might have to get a CAN transceiver and play around when I finish some other projects.

The first thing I checked was vibration and it's smooth, thankfully. Mine mounts to the part of the mirror that's attached to the windshield, not the mirror itself, so there's no vibration and the camera doesn't move if you adjust the mirror. I used a DC-DC converter to get 5v USB too, works...

I plan to test it out a little bit more and might improve the hinge/joint to make it notched so it doesn't just rely on friction to hold the hinge in whatever position you adjust it to. I'll probably put it on Thingiverse once i'm happy with it. I don't care to make money off of it, and if...

I had this problem too. The suction mount fell off multiple times, even after cleaning the glass and suction cup. Ended up designing a new mount in CAD that attaches directly to the mirror, printed on my 3D printer. So far it works great. It's printed in PLA, so i'll find out here in the summer...

I average about 22 "city". Mostly driving to work and back. It's about a 12-15 minute drive one way through 8 traffic lights and 4 stop signs. Lights are spaced probably 1/3 of a mile apart. I probably hit half the lights red on average. I got about 32 on my last highway trip. I drive in normal...

Had to grab a pic after I got to work this morning.

I'm not sure if this is it or if it's just for hitting the button on the keyfob, but try Settings -> Vehicle -> Locks -> Remote Unlock From there, I have an option for "All Doors" and "Driver First" Is yours set to Driver First?

Mine unlocks both doors every time. I'll try to remember to look at it when I leave work.

I know, just trying to give him the benefit of the doubt, as he seems positive his is capacitive. jbailer, did you buy your Stang new?

That's really odd. Seems extra odd they'd vary it even within the same production year.

Yeah, MFT/Sync 2 on the 2015 does not have a capacitive touch screen. It is resistive. He's referring to simultaneous touch points. You might want to check that you have the same unit as us, because my 2015 w/MyFord Touch definitely has a resistive touch screen.

Congrats. I hope one day I can make enough money to afford a car that MSRP's for half my house. :headbang:

Can you still control the heated/cooled seats with this unit?