I think you are trying to do something with just a switch that you actually need the switch and a set of relays to do. Think reverse polarity door locks. Here is a good diagram of how to do that: https://www.the12volt.com/relays/relaydiagram49.html
In Australia, the maps never update over wifi, only the Sync software. We have to go to the dealer here to get any map updates even though they are free for the first 5 years.
When you connect the battery and it pushes the cone out, that means you have positive from batt to positive on speaker. If it pulls it in, then it’s backwards.
I guess all I’m saying is that if you have no wiring diagram and you have the original sub you can tell which wires are pos/neg using the battery method. It doesn’t matter whether Ford intended for it to kick in or out, it only matters what you want from your new sub. Also I wouldn’t guarantee...
Good practical comments overall. There is however a much, much easier way to work out polarity on a woofer. Get a 9 volt battery and connect to the speakers terminals. When you see it kick out (vs in) you now know which side is + and - :)
I'm using a Dayton Audio 10" in the factory B&O enclosure and a Fosgate R500 X1D Amp. With that combo I can turn up the bass quite loudly when top is down, it really rocks.
https://www.daytonaudio.com/product/1108/rss265ho-44-10-reference-ho-dvc-subwoofer-2-ohm...
Depends on what you mean. I never liked the stock wheel, the leather feels fake and too soft. The nubs on the inside of the wheel at the top are too small. The one I have is a lot harder (the way I like it) and just plain feels better in your hands. It feels nice now, hard to say how long it...
The GT350 wheel has it (why exactly I don’t know) and all the aftermarket ones are just replicating it. I don’t personally like it but for $259 shipped it doesn’t bother me that much.