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After closely studying your pictures I think I picked up on a couple of things. Does your blower pulley have threaded holes? And is your blower pulley an 8” pulley? If so this could be the difference in or cs kits. I went with the 18& up 7.65 blower pulley

Why would I run those as opposed to 5w-30? I’m sure there are many schools of thought on engine oil viscosity and why brand x is better than brand y. That being said I’m more than comfortable with my choice.

I’m driving the car, but I’m keeping the rpms low and staying out of boost. Still breaking in the motor and all. It’s on its second batch of 5-20 semi and tomorrow I’ll drain that and put in 5-30 full synthetic

Very interesting. This is how I set it up first time around and it wouldn’t work. The cs mandrel would rest on the bolt heads. The bolts I have for the ac pulley can’t have the washers removed at least not without cutting them off. Right now the mandrel and the blower pulley are theaded into...

This makes sense. I thought about modifying their bolts or just sourcing my own. For the parts I have if I use the ati supplied 12 point bolts for the ac pulley the cs mandrel will not sit flush on the face of the blower pulley. I may end up sourcing my own 3/8x16 flange headed 6 point bolts for...

That way makes sense to me which is why I tried it twice, but with hardware supplied in both the cs kit and the ati balancer it just won’t work. Even if I took the washers off of the ac pulley bolts that come with the balancer they would still be too long. I’m hoping that perhaps the cs I have...

If you have some pictures of your install I would love to see them. I tried it the way you mentioned and the bolts protrude through my pulley not letting the flat surface of the mandrel sit flush. I’m pretty sure the instructions for the ati balancer say not to leave any hole with out a bolt...

Figured it all out! I was going back through the crank support instructions and I noticed in the pictures there was no additional bolts in the balancer. I’m referring to the 3/8 12 point bolts . I had the ati supplied bolts holding the ac pulley on and then the bolts that came with the crank...

Yeah. It’s really odd. Using the supplied 2&3/4 inch bolts that came with the cs they won’t pull the pulley tight to the balancer. Almost like the bolts are too long. But now that I’m using the shorter bolts and the other 3 bolt holes the pulley and the mandrel wobble. I’m going to pull it apart...

https://youtube.com/shorts/ilrC1rRA6MI?feature=share This is the cause of my rattle. Which is a relief, but also a different part to stress on. I pulled it all apart and decided to use the shorter set of 3/8 bolts that came with my crank support kit because they actually bolt to the balancer...

Pretty sure I read that whole thread. Good read and good info, but I’m fairly certain. My issue is due to an issue I’m having with the stage2 pulley

Yeah I’ve seen that before and just watched it again. No blame on the boundry gears and seeing that my engine was brand new the pump housing should be good. I did check for any available movement of the housing before I snugged down the bolts but near as I could tell it looked perfect

I’m just going off of my previous experience with the boundry gears. Truth be told I wanted the Ford performance gears, but no one has them in stock

So I googled mmr oil pump gear noise and the first thing that came up was a post from a guy with a s197 with the exact same noise I have and I came across numerous post from people with noises relating to mmr oil pump gears. Anyway I preemptively ordered a set of gears from boundry. I ran them...

Car runs great, good oil pressure, but …. It does have a rattling noise that I can hear clear as day when I put my stethoscope on the crank support. I’m probably going to have to pull the support off. See if the noise is still there. Then I’ll start pulling belts and hopefully I find it before...

Thank you. The last few days were a bit stressful, but I’m glad it all worked out. I’m going to drive it for a couple of days and then get some fresh oil in it.

Got it running today! All I needed was that roller lifter for the di pump and she started right up. I was watching my oil pressure pid on my laptop and it was stuck at zero which of course had me concerned, but it turned out to be a glitch in the software. My dash read normal oil pressure and...

Car sounds great. That’s a lot of oil changes you have planned. I was going to go about 100 miles on the oil that’s in mine , change it to synthetic, and call it good

Also a quick look at my tune file this morning confirmed what I was thinking. Start up is %100 di. Explains why it wouldn’t start

Looks like that’s an o ring. My pump has an o ring on it. Is there nothing that goes between the pump and the mounting flange? I just want to make sure I’m not missing anything that might affect pump preload