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Garaged most of the time, but it has held up well for 10 years and 45,000 miles.

Thanks, and no problem. Cars come and go. Just temper your expectations and be prepared for either outcome.

Quarter panel repairs are expensive. Those generally total cars because there’s damage you can’t see. Especially if the car is older than 4-5 years and has national average miles (12,000/yr). The car has pretty much taken the full depreciation hit at this point. I had a similar hit. The...

When I bought my Battery Tender Junior it came with quick disconnect and alligator clips. The newer versions look like it’s a Y cable split.

Right. My whole thing is they’re not going to do anything I haven’t already done. If things break…..they get fixed.

I only take my car in for tires, inspection, and alignments. Every place I’ve taken it there’s usually another 4-5 miles on it. The only places that haven’t joyrided it is Discount Tire and my new local Ford dealer because none of them seem to be able to drive standard.

Valet mode only does so much. You can still do burnouts with it enabled. Besides, there’s a master unlock number for it that’s easily accessible if anyone knows valet mode is enabled.

If only they had the 15-17 style. I’ve had the Morimoto ones with plug and play amber turn signals for a few years no issue. If I remember correctly the Ford Performance weren’t available when I bought these.

Yep. The Mazda I just bought sat for 6+ months. Dealers have those cars longer than you think. 3 months is a light sleep.

So essentially, there is a high chance this wear is limited to higher rpm cam lobe? I wonder if this is ghost cam damage then.

I agree. But something’s up if it’s similar types of wear across generations of motors. Maybe it’s just bad on engines that get ragged on hard? I honestly have no idea. It just sucks to see.

Found another thread from earlier this year with a Gen 2. Looks like this is just an inherent flaw in the coyote heads? https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/abnormal-camshaft-wear.197121/

Yea at this point I’d toss the cams. Maybe have them polished and clear coated for a lamp or whatever. Two theories, either that shipment on that side of the assembly line was bad, or oiling to the whole side of the motor is bad. If it were one lobe I’d think oiling. But since they’re all so...

I had something similar happen when I was borrowing a buddies 2005 GT. The rocker had insufficient oiling and blew up and took the cam with it. In that instance I had to do all new rockers and lash adjusters with 2 new cams. Engine was saved but it looked like a bad oiling issue which was...

If you go full bolt on and E85 you might be lucky to get 150 miles a tank lol.

If you are doing these short trips, you also need to change your oil more frequently. Once a year or 5,000 miles with whatever full synthetic is cheapest that meets Ford spec should be enough. Idk if I’d do 3,000. You’d need to have the oil analyzed to get any meaningful data between the two...

Deep tone in general is hard to achieve with the coyote. And if you want it to not be loud, don’t add LTH’s. It’ll be obnoxious even with a resonator. I’ve got just the s-type with x-pipe and stock headers and it’s more than loud enough. I’d start with the s-type first if your car is stock...

As a follow up for anyone else encountering this, I have had this issue again after a little over 18 months of no problems since I greased it the first time. I have not replaced any parts, and have just cleaned and re-greased the window connector with more dielectric grease. As of a month...

I do 35 on the sides and 20 on the back glass. It’s just enough that if you do a lot of night driving without street lamps 20 is a pain in the ass.

My 2016 GT premium with August 2015 build date has it. My replacement hood from the corrosion warranty also has it.