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I second this. How do I order the cap separately? I already have your mounts and they’ve been great. I live in a winter city and drive year round so I had to make my own cap solution to avoid road grime from ruining the bearings after one winter. Would love a clean metal cap like that.

Sucks to hear you’re experiencing what I did but I’m not surprised. They’re completely Inadequate for this chassis. I feel like a fool wasting money on them. The Bilsteins were immediately more beefy looking and work as tough you’d expect from their rep. Just wish this chassis as a whole wasn’t...

Yeah I would say the BMR handling springs offer a happy medium of strong performance handling for the track and good street manners. Lots of owners have good things to say. The rear spring rates are solid.

The reason the special actives are a terrible choice if you’re lowering is because they need travel to work well. There’s so little shock travel on these cars at stock height so after lowering you need better, shorter bump stops and a shock that can manage short travel distance. After lowering...

From what I’ve read, the Koni Yellows also aren’t great on this car and the ride is crashy. The twin tube rear shocks just can’t keep up. On this platform strong rebound is needed and the monotube Bilsteins and Ford Performance shocks do very well according to many different owners.

That sucks to hear man. Yeah if I had known about the Bilsteins off the bat I would have started there. All the best with your next setup. I’ll hesitate to toss stock parts now if I have room to keep them for situations like this.

Best get some covers. I found some rubber covers from a parts store and wrapped them around the top rim with wire.

Stay away from “active” dampers on a drop. Maybe Steeda’s are better than Koni but Koni Actives are crap. Just replaced my rear Koni Active shocks with Bilstein B6s and the noise is gone, ride is smoother and it’s more controlled. Night and day difference. Given that the Bilsteins may push up...

Update: it was the shocks. Just installed some Bilstein B6s today and there’s no more noise, no harshness, rides smoother. Should have bought them from the beginning. I’m relieved as hell and very happy. Koni Actives are trash, especially on a lowered car. I’ll leave the fronts in cause...

I run 245/45/19 Michelin X-Ice 3s on 19x9” Ecoboost performance pack wheels. Driven three winters in Edmonton, AB with very little issue. You won’t be keeping up with AWD SUV’s off the hop but it manages well in snow and holds up fairly well on ice. Be careful of braking on ice or slippery roads...

Sounds like a fantastic setup! Hope it dials in nicely for you man. Try for 0.5 degrees less camber in the rear than front. I have the same springs and with .10 total front toe in (0.5 per side) and 0.26 rear toe in, my camber is about -2 degrees all around. I may back the toe out a touch in...

Sounds good Matt thanks. You mentioned you weren’t happy with the rebound and overall lack of refinement with the Actives right? I’m almost ready to pull the trigger on replacing my rear Koni shocks with B6s but want to confirm if that’s the source of my ongoing issue (probably is). All the best...

Really hey? My Koni’s have the same piston rod diameter as the stock shocks and went into the stock mounts the same with stock bump stops. So if stock bump stops fit the Bilsteins then I’d imagine the Eibach bump stops would fit over the Bilsteins. I wonder if anyone is running them.

jonyxz said 18 mm! That’s huge. The ID of the bump stops is 8.9mm so it’s a tight stretch over my Koni Active piston rods which are 10mm. I don’t get it. Is the ID of the bump stops in this thread that wide? I didn’t think the Bilsteins piston was that thick wow.

@Roadway 5.0 I know @Brian@BMVK asked about the outer diameter of the shock body but does anyone know the diameter of the piston rod for the Bilstein shocks? I’m wondering if the Eibach bump stops from the pro-kit would fit over the B6s. I’ve read the piston rod is a little thicker than stock -...

What bump stops are you using?

It’s not a high frequency rattling so I’m fairly certain I have the top nut tight to spec. It’s more of a clunking rattle that’s been there since about 1000 miles after installing the shocks and springs. I posted a video in the Koni Actives thread to show exactly what the sound is when driving...

I know this is a silly question but how do you know that it’s tight enough? I’m fairly certain I’ve tightened them as much as possible and the torque spec isn’t that high. I’ve used lock-tite and it didn’t seem like I could get any more thread. Both shocks had the same amount of thread above the...

Yes. I used a dremel to cut them off and painted over that spot. You can’t use the lower mounting holes without cutting off those alignment pins (only used for vehicle assembly, not needed after).

I also found them difficult to bolt up. I had to use my impact gun just to get the bolts to dig through the mounting holes and tighten up with the sheet metal. Started it by hand and then with a wrench but the spacing of the mounting holes made it tough to turn the bolts further without...