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This is interesting. I have the FR shocks / struts. I should have checked, I have the replacements but didn't even open the box for a replacement set thinking the bump stops I saw on there already would be designed for a car w a 1 inch drop, since the dampers are. Thanks for the info!

So I'd need torque down the strut top bolt. Thought this was possible on ground but no it's not. Got a bit of a rattle, think it may be this. When is it best to do this? I intend to pull the assembly out, dismantle and inspect all, esp. the bearing cup, put it back together, ensure its torqued...

This is what I'm going to do. I'll pull it off, decompress the springs, pull it apart, inspect possibly replace bearing cup, put assembly back together, right side up and torque it down, and remount, both sides. Torque everything down. I have new hardware (bolts, nuts) to remount. Road test on...

I'm going to pull it apart and do it again.

What are the exact proper procedures and tools for torquing the upper strut bolt and when should that occur?

Agree!

Seriously, if that plastic rotating pos is holding my entire front end up at such a critical point, WTH is going on?

I used the new ones.

My CC replaced everything in that vid except the bottom half of it.. the ford racing shocks / struts came with all that shown new. I just used bottom half which vaguely resembles a toilet seal. The top half in vid with studs is replaced. Top half sits on the toilet seal and spins. I'm looking...

I have new maximum Motorsports caster camber plates. Steel ball bearings there along w all new parts in most recent install including ford racing struts. I'd like to try the silencer pls. PM'd you last night. If I still have any noise I'll do it all over again w new springs. Maybe try the ultra...

I wouldn't think so but for *i think* the max cap for passengers and cargo is under 700 pounds w factory springs. Now I've lowered an inch, put nearly half that weight on one side. It seems like a big bump might jar a progressive spring. I'm no engineer though.

I added these with rear sway bar set at min. Amazing! Pulled off temporarily w sway bar set at max. Didn't notice as much difference.

Additional considerations.. Well thankfully someone pointed me to this thread. This issue sounds just like the sound I'm getting driver front. A few variables perhaps worth noting after reading this entire thread with the varying experiences noted... ..the adjustable sway bar positions (using...

Wow - thanks for the insight! Springs are progressive - no isolator. Never saw any. .... Thing is it's often just a medium rough patch while going straight that might deflect the wheel rearwards suddenly.. I would think the 2nd stage would be out of the loop in this. However, I do get...

Getting a suspension rattle over bumps, esp. while turning at <20 mph intermittently passenger side. When first heard it was strut to spindle bolts not torqued. Torqued them down with blue locktite and ordered fresh set. Sound gone for 300+ miles. This time they were still fine (new ones not...

Yes I hear you....it's a really nice shifter.

It's a significant upgrade in build quality. I suspect the big difference will be with high RPM shifts. I drove mildly around some twisting roads at around 3-5k and enjoyed the car immensely. I would not say it's easy to install. It's doable with the right tools, some decent skill and a...

Thanks!

Need to close out the issue raised here. Found the thud thread. Various theories. Some think it's from hammering into gear (time for synchros) or somehow related to IRS/diff. A few say they have 95% reduced thud by replacing diff bushings w BMRs or adding Steedas'.

Installed the MGW yesterday. Part of installation is to slam into first to check rear lock out alignment. I don't normally do that. Normally I shift like the fellow in the video above, and I don't hear a thud. But today I was probably forcing it in to test the MGW out and heard the thud 3...