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https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/steeda-comfort-active-suspension-package.135756/ Here’s one Search “Steeda comfort” in this forum. Should work

There’s threads about this setup already so search for them. Summary: the progressive springs pair very nicely with the “active” dampers and provide a great balance between daily ride comfort and solid handling for spirited driving. Would probably do decent at the track but definitely not what...

Update: took the car for another cruise after taking the torque wrench out and the noise is still there. It’s different than the sound the failed stock mount was making. It’s not always there and when I have the music going and the windows down it’s imperceptible. If you’re keeping it quiet with...

To be honest it might be my torque wrench... I have it in the trunk so I can retorque my summer wheels in a pinch but I just wrapped it in towels after that drive. I’ll have to go for another drive to know for sure. Since no one else has mentioned noise (I don’t see how it’s possible given the...

Thanks for the link! This was only because the suspension was in full droop. To use the lower mounting holes I had to jack up the lower control arm a bit so I could screw in the lower bolts. With the car on the ground the dust boot is flat against the base of the shock mount bearing plate.

After two months of sitting on them, I finally installed my J&M mounts yesterday. They were installed on Koni Active shocks (reds) with the smaller reducer for stock sized shocks I believe. Install went well but the holes for the mounting bolts didn’t leave much room for the bolts to thread...

This set will not need spacers to fit properly on your car because they’re made with the correct offsets to push the wheels out and clear the struts/shock mounts. SVE makes these wheels specifically for Mustangs and many of them are flow formed - all of the strength and much less weight. That’s...

I would agree for sure. It’s a cheap option that paired with the BG fluid helped out but the NVH is silly if you don’t cut the entire middle out. There is definitely a reason Ford left that gap.

When I installed my whiteline bushing I cut the middle part out completely and only installed the sides. I tried it first with a long drilled out hole in the center as recommended but the NVH was terrible. Without the middle part it’s completely tolerable for a daily with only a hint more...

Congrats - How long did the install take? First impressions of the difference in feel?

Those look deadly but please get some great shots to really show them off! Fitment looks nice, especially the rear.

I tried with my torque wrench and impact gun. 4/5 nuts were spinning. Because I had to be able to make it home from my folk’s garage, I didn’t mess with it too much and stopped before I made it worse (no they were not around, we’re being safe with distancing). Given how freely the nuts were...

Hey guys, Title speaks for itself and the issue showed up today when attempting to take off my wheels. Had the rear of the car jacked up, went to remove the wheel lugs nuts and they started free spinning without loosening off on the driver’s side. I have 25mm (1") CJ Pony Parts spacers...

I have the Koni Actives lowered on these springs (as you likely know) and I don’t have any front end issues. I replaced the strut mounts with fresh FP ones during the install. No noise, no weird issues over bumps, no handling problems. I have 1” spacers on PP wheels so my front track might be...

That's great man! I hope you have a good experience with them. The bump stops I mentioned are the ones that are included with the Pro Kit so you're already set. Do not trim these bump stops, they're softer and better shaped than factory ones so they work well at full length.

If you’d like a nice drop spring that’s not too low you could try BMR 763 minimum drop springs like I have. They’re close to stock PP spring rates and drop the front 7/8ths of an inch and the rear 1/2 an inch. I live in Edmonton with our crap roads and park underground. I don’t really have any...

I’m curious about this too because I’ll be installing J&M’s rear shock mounts next weekend and was considering the higher mounting point to give a little more shock travel back. After lowering on BMR763s there’s very little shock travel before touching the bump stops so I figured giving an...

They fit perfect. I’m using them. Same diameter, just 2.76” uncut unlike stock at 3”. And Eibach’s have a lower durometer so they compress more; you won’t have to cut them. Again if coronavirus wasn’t making it a challenge to leave your home, I would be riding without noise and issue if I could...

Well that’s not promising to hear. Did you install the J&M mounts on the lower bolt holes to give more shock travel? That’s what I plan to do but I need to cut off those alignment points. I thought about stock mounts again cause they’re cheap but I figured they wear out quick again. Still...

If you didn’t replace the strut mounts you definitely should have. Same with the rear shock mounts. I’d say it’s essential when throwing on new dampers and springs. I replace the front strut mounts when I put my Koni Actives on with BMR SP763s and there’s zero noise or issues. However, I didn’t...