Search results

Not when this is the alternative for budget minded performance … These consistently last the full pad life of gloc r18’s

Again if unequal, you’re a front subframe shift away from a tenth or two more positive camber. Slam them both max positive on the plates and shift subframe until equal. Or leave it, you’ll never notice the side to side difference. If you had camber bolts in front they’d be immediately...

I'd say rest easy.... I've had two of these cars now and both had a notable difference in strut position left to right to achieve equal camber. It takes significant strut movement at the top to achieve minimal camber change. Anything from the small play in the top plate holes, knuckle to strut...

If you’re gonna run sub 9/10 of the car’s capability, I’d run what you have and take it one at a time. No sense in going overboard unnecessarily. This engine generates so much extra heat right at the edge. I’ve found if I back it down from 9.5+/10 to just 9/10, my car’s temps drop dramatically.

Mach 1 hubs are not invincible either. 30k miles on mine (my late ‘21 base came with them). They were crunchy and had minor play. I wonder how much it’s the heat of the oem PP brakes and the solid rotors that puts all the heat into them killing the grease. My rears were shot too at 30k as...

I think you’ll find it’s a mess of shit once you get the bumper off the car. Be awesome if they can up with something but you’ll see there’s big air gaps everywhere both leading to the condenser, around the condenser, between the radiator and the condenser, and around radiator. This shows my 6...

You had a ballsy instructor— I never show anyone that line when my butt’s in the passenger seat.

These temp issues have little to do with how “hard” you are on the car… smooth driving fast still means high average load % on the engine = high temps. Now wheel hubs, transmission, axle shafts, etc are definitely affected by how “hard” you are.

Lol and since posting this I had to step it up to an 660 oil cooler due to high temps I was still having at Nelson’s Ledges. But before you put a for sale sign on it….. rpm is a big factor and so is the driver. Try it first and see what happens.

7 club course

Once I get done my attempt to not mow the grass on exit after my early apex/deep trail brake and start breathing again.. you bet.

I'm running a '21 base GT now. I had a '19 PP2 before the base. Nothing quantifiable, but immediate improvement in speed and magnitude of temp drops in longer braking zones once off throttle-- like into China Beach at MidO, Turn 17 and PittRace, and into Horse Shoe at VIR.

I'm not sure on this... That oil cooler is so small, Stock PP radiator, still no hood vents, insufficient radiator ducting. No doubt the M1 is further ahead to start with, but you're also deeper into the money. If you're going to really bang on a Mach 1, even a manual, I think you're going...

The difference in heat generation running the car at 8/10's and 9.5/10's. Is exponential. The driver is a big x-factor to the cooling equation. You'll see some wrap the exhaust around the diff, use 140Wt oil and have no issues. I'm on my 2nd S550. On both, I've had to hack the hood, cut up...

PP2 Knuckles/hubs are beefier than standard non mag cars. Leave that alone for now. Depending on how hard you drive, mishi oil cooler is undersized and not baffled properly. PP2 is a ferocious car with high mechanical grip = excessive heat very fast. I was regularly in various diff, oil...

What’s interesting is my late build 2021 GT Base came with this mach1 bearing/knuckle.

Method one - poor man's strut socket - B6 takes an allen key on the tip of the strut shaft. From memory, the supplied nut fits one of the extremely common spark plug sockets. Most spark plug sockets have a hex on the end. Start the nut on the shaft then install the socket. Slip an Allen key...

Well that’s a bummer for you… just drill the cap to make one

You’re not reading my post correctly, there’s a divot in the nut from the tool. You use that nut flipped upside down resting on the castle nut. The ball on the threaded rod engages the divot in the nut from the tool. You’re putting the pressure onto the castle nut, not the tip of the stud...

Whoa you made that harder than it needs to be…. Flip the castle nut and thread it down so some of the post is exposed Set the nut from the tool over top the exposed stud so it is resting on the upside down castle nut and the post of the stud keeps the nut from sliding sideways Set up the...