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Scroth sells a 2 strap sub belt. I used angle brackets and eye bolts at each of the rear seat mount bolts. I slip the sub belt straps between the base and back of the seat and the clip onto the eye bolts. So I am sitting on the sub belt. Not ideal setup and feel free to tell me I’m gonna die...

Knuckle dictates the hub you need. Hub debacle didn’t seem to start until ‘21. There’s no upgrading the hub style unless you’re changing your knuckle.

Not my experience with the many sets I’ve run on multiple car platforms. All pad compounds of Gloc make zero noise on track for me it’s only when using them as not intended on street they squeal and grind

Agreed bilsteins are the unsung champ

Interesting how ford switched the rotor design and used Mach 1 hubs even on base GT. My gt base late 21 build had this as well.

I run the titanium shims from op. I think it helps quiet them down. They’ll get noisy, then settle down. They’ll stick to the rotors when parked overnight after rain. You take the good with the bad. I daily on R18/R12

Run oem stock seats and a scroth harness. I even installed a sub belt. Comfy seats on street. Tolerable stability at the track.

Solution is simple get a wheel offset that is centered for zero scrub radius and go with a narrow wheel. Once you go wide or space those wheels out for the hella flush look, the laws of physics start to take over.

The fix is to get a set of 305’s, drive that around for a while and get used to it. Then switch back to 285. Tramlining will feel non existent.

Then you’re doing something wrong that shit washes right off

Such is life when you’re not running Glocs. Glocs have no lasting effects on wheels when wet, driven in the salt, let them sit for a month dirty. Rinse old wheels and good as new

Track time has a substantial impact For instance my car is my track car and my daily. I’m somewhere around 8-10 sets of rotors and pads at 30k miles My rotors are toast with cracks by the time the pads are done

Nothing.. I daily on R18/r12 year round

Again a terrible idea to use an impact on these. I’d lower the subframe enough I could dremmel a slot. Put some heat into it with a torch. Then I’d come though the subframe with an air chisel using one those flat blade attachments with a lever arm and see if I could get it to turn out with...

Those rear subframe bolts thread into sheet metal and soft threads. The bolts are shaped like a thread tap. It’s like they designed it to cross thread. If you only started them by hand for a few threads then hit them with some 800lb/ft air gun even for a couple Ugga duggas that could way over...

I have all the tools and know how and I’d still buy a complete diff and swap it. By the time you buy gears, bearings, borrow all the tools, do the work, bugger the pinion seal on install, reinstall, find drips on your floor, do the whole job over again, etc, you’ll save yourself a ton of time...

I daily drive r18/r12 100 miles/day. My gs1 just sit in a box brand new. Little touchy when cold but great when I try to win the hpde trophy on the weekends.

Most underrated combo around. Steeda, Koni, FP all seem to have everyone convinced they’re some highly engineered combo. Meanwhile stiff linear springs on mono tubes are the best set it and forget it for budget oriented, track/street combo. High speed control on street with shitty roads is...

Zero need. Bushing is there to minimize nvh. Leave it alone on a street car. Run stock mounts but use trimmed eibach bump stops.

There are Porsche forums for those folks