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I've done work on regular jacks and now these, I feel very confident working under the car with these. It doesn't move at all, and it feels very solid, I'm currently using them to do a clutch swap and it is fantastic.

I’ve just crossed 12k miles on the car. The clutch is preventative, the stock one really started to feel off after adding the supercharger. While it was still in decent shape, it certainly had seen some heat. But I also want to be able to throw more boost at it down the line.

Yea, I compared them to the bolts I took out, they appear identical. I also just had the torque wrench I used recalibrated this week for this job. Could be a fluke, but I feel like I won’t get that lucky again if another bolt shears.

I was going to get them from lmr, but found my local dealer sells them for 1.50 a bolt or 12 for the set. Maybe LMRs are better at that price. :giggle:

Yea those were brand new factory bolts. I’m going to order another 8 now and hopefully I’ll have better luck. I bought new bolts because I was worried about this exact issue :/

It does sit on a slight angle, but it’s not noticeable to me at all. You could probably get away with tall front and rear and be fine. If I had 1/4 of an inch more height I could fit the tall ones in front.

I bought a set of 7000TL's in January and love them, best investment I've made so far. I'm using them to do a clutch swap right now and they are very stable and I love that you can easily raise and lower them. I'm lowered on Steeda Min drop springs and I have their jacking rails, I bought that...

I was able to retrieve the bolt with a set of channel locks. After a bit of googling, I found: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/917832-broken-flywheel-bolt.html and the info in the thread makes sense, without the head on the bolt applying the pressure, the bolt should...

So....your suggestion worked very well, though I now find myself in a significantly worse spot than I was earlier, one of the brand new fly wheel bolts that I was using sheared off while torquing it to about 60 lb ft. Any suggestions on getting that out? For clarification, I hand tightened all...

I didn't even think of that, I could actually get my wife to help using that method. Thanks!

Anyone have any tips for the flywheel installation with one person? Trying to torque those bolts has been challenging by myself and I'm trying to find a way to hold it while not damaging the new flywheel.

Great, thanks for the info!

If you do the Motul DCTF, do you need to use a friction modifier or just straight Motul?

Thanks for the info, I was able to confirm that the flywheel already has a pilot bearing installed, I'm not sure if that is the case for all clutch kits for the 18 plus cars, but it is for the RXT-1200.

I have it out in the garage. Pardon the ignorance, this is my first clutch swap. It seems like the 2018 up kits have it built in, looking at the clutch in the package, it's already assembled but based on what I can see, it looks like there is a pilot bearing already...

I purchased the Mcleod RXT1200 from Lethal at Christmas for my 18 GT and I'm getting ready to install it now. I'm finding conflicting information on whether I need to purchase a new pilot bearing or whether this flywheel comes installed with a new one already. I reached out to Lethal as well...

How does this do in the heat? I have SS one now that is blistering in the summer.

For people with the 6MT, how are your clutches holding up? I've only got about 1000 miles on my kit (problem free BTW) and I'm noticing that my clutch is starting to feel a bit vague. I'm definitely not beating on the car (no launches, burnouts, donuts, etc) but I've certainly done plenty of...

If you decide you are willing to ship the exhaust, let me know, I'm interested.

I've not had a Procharger setup, but I felt that the ESS kit was very high quality. The brackets, the head unit, and intercooler included were really nice quality. I didn't have any "issues" with the Procharger setup, but just felt pulled towards the ESS kit.