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Yes, it can be corrosive as well as drying out rubber components in your fuel system.

Yeah, that gets into aftermarket tuning which is a huge negative for me. I like keeping things factory reliable as I don't have as much time to be chasing down issues. It's why Roush and the FP packages are so appealing.

I'm not and never will be a fan of E85. Yes you can make more power, but the fuel consumption with it is pathetic and the limited availability is a huge issue. I like knowing I can go to any fuel station and fill up, especially when taking a road trip.

Yep, lots of magazine/forum racers around here.

If you bought a GT500 just to do the 1/4 mile with, you're doing it wrong......

I have a 2015 which I believe did not come with a temp sensor. I guess just go with some diff fluid that's resistant to higher temps for track days and hope for the best....

My ass does stink, no argument there. I can assure you I do. I come from a highly technical background, also have been wrenching on cars since I was a teenager. Again, it varies. Did my first compression test as well as a leakdown test on an engine in the mid 90's when I was 17. This was...

I gave you an answer as to why an exact value can't be given for a compression test. Yes I have opinions and they're all right.

Unless its a harbor freight tester then all bets are off...... My rules are with harbor freight are as follows: 1. No measurement tools (torque wrenches, compression testers etc). 2. If its failure can either hurt or kill you, don't buy it from harbor freight (Jackstands come to mind).

Too many factors here, bad seal, leaky tester etc can affect the overall number. Again you need to be focused on the consistency of the numbers you're getting, not the overall number.

Not sure, I've combined the Roush PP1 with a FP Borla exhaust on my 2015 and I'm quite pleased with the result.

Since pressure gauge readings can vary depending on the manufacturer, you're going to be more concerned with the consistency of the measurement between all cylinders.

Your best bet would be to have your local Roush dealer install their PP2 package. https://www.roushperformance.com/parts/mustang-parts-category/mustang-performance-pacs-category/2018-mustang-gt-performance-pac-level-2.html

Due to the GT350 body the car likely would be undrivable with the factory flash. My local dealer (also a roush dealer) is able to load Ford Performance as well as Roush tune vouchers.

Can you take it to the dealer, have them reflash the PCM back to stock then reload the PP2 flash?

Roush does as well, I'd put them on par with the Ford Performance offering. I've got their PP1 because the tune is adaptive for lower octane if needed.

Its likely that the new TB was utilized because it would provide a proper seal on the GT350 intake. Less development costs to be able to utilize off the shelf parts rather than develop a new intake. I believe the only new part developed was the TB adapter.

I did not purchase the street handling pack, only the X-springs. The rest of the components from the street handling pack came with my car since it's a PP1.

Understood on the shifter bushing, like I said I will go aftermarket when needed. Great question on the IRS lockout, and it is something that I have considered. First and foremost this is a street car, my wife already complains about the Recaro's and I'm hesitant to add anything to the vehicle...

I have experienced 3rd gear lockout and the whiteline bushing seemed to help with that particular issue. My issue is that the shifting action is still notchy, and will grind when cold. I know that I can do things like changing the fluid but this doesn't solve for poor quality. I'd rather pull a...