I ran out of what I assume is fuel pump at 850 (7500 rpm). Going to run a triple 465 with one on a Hobbs. Currently on DW95’s, likely going to 1500cc.
I’m thinking about the B302 intake as well.
The short block is kind of where I’m on the fence. I’m curious how well the stock sleeves hold up...
I'm looking to see who all is in the 1000WHP range, preferably on a centri car, and what setups are running at that level.
I know what fueling will be needed- got it covered.
Essentially just getting an idea of what intake, cams, boost (pulley combo), intercooling, etc, people are running...
If you don't have them and are buying your first set, then sure, go for the 1 7/8. If you already have 1 3/4 it's not worth the time or money to swap. I have 1 3/4" headers and by the look of my dyno graph and boost pressure the car was not hurting for header. The power was still going up when I...
Sell the CJ and grab a Paxton. If you can do E85 that is priority 1. If not add the B302 intake, keep the big pulley on, and enjoy.
If you have E85.. 850whp is cake (stock mani, DW95's/ID1050x or higher, Sai Li fuel system or larger)
Also, the CJ+Boost isn't so much about the intake...
Holy cow, lol. I'd definitely want a chute. Those poor little things don't stand a chance under real braking.
Good info though, thanks for sharing. I'd like to do some 1/2 mile stuff but am kinda worried I'd have too much fun and blow up my stock shortblock:D
:cheers:
I run about 20psi in my Street R Bias tires for Mexico trips (no digs). That and a solid alignment make a world of difference during a 60-160 run. I also refuse to run on crap roads. #turnpiketuned
The BP ETSR's aren't THAT bad. They wiggle a bit but you just gotta keep the wheel straight and not panic.:D
Essentially I think any stiff sidewall radial is not going to be friendly to any stick car with gearing like a 3.73/MT82 car has. They can "hook", but only if you are very nice to them...
More tire or more suspension. The ET S/S are not manual friendly. For real dig traction you want the ET Street R Bias Ply.
Even then you have to find what the car likes...
Example: I was in a 3 way 60 roll with my hood rat friends and my car spun 28" tall ET Street R BP tires. At 60 MPH. You...
It's not that rare, my buddy shafted his 6R80 in Mexico this weekend. Not sure what broke, but it's likely one of the usual suspects (convertor, pump, intermediate shaft).
If you are talking about replacing the stock pump in your hat with one of those options then you would need to contact the manufacturer directly in order to have them add a venturi fitting to the pump. That is why those pumps wont work in the stock hat.
The billet hats modify the method by...
GT350 pumps won't work unless you add a regulator and at that point you might as well do a return system.
Stock pump for the GT handles NA cars with 47lb injectors in that range all the time.
A return style conversion. Really just need a rail adapter to run a line to the regulator, a return line, regulator, and a pair of relays fed from battery power and triggered by the FPDM trigger. Honestly can be done for around $600 depending on how you shop.
Yessir
:confused: Uh, no. I said comparable, and what I had available for direct comparison was a car that made comparable numbers in the typical rev range. A 12 psi whipple vs a 15 PSI centri car both on E and tuned by lund, dyno'd on the same dyno, same day. Granted, the centri car in this comparison...