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Anywhere below 1/2 tank I get a stumble in longer left handers. Running 200TW 305. I try to keep gas above above 2/3 full at all times so basically fueling up every session. Some tracks I can get away with going below 1/2 tank.

Man that’s good news that there was enough meat left to fix it!

I'd lose my mind going through that many motors. The car isn't that great of a track car to be dealing with that. What CHT and oil temps are your running? what cooling upgrades?

I’d start to get concerned at mechanical longevity at those temps. My 2021 base with no tune will pull power at temps exceeding 235 CHT. No warning but you can tell it’s doing it. My 2019 PP2 stock tune would also do this.

This is a great data point that not everyone needs to go as far down the rabbit hole and to take it a step at a time. The heat generation goes up exponentially as you drive in the 9-9.5/10 range. If you’re not driving there, the cooling modification list drops dramatically. I will say of all...

Thanks for the input— maybe I’m describing my wiring diagram in my head incorrectly for the fronts—I’m gonna feed amped front channels up to near the HU, into the passive crossover boxes. Then feed the woofer outputs on the crossover into the factory front L/R wiring at the T harness to power...

My other couple cars have some seriously better factory sound—was hoping to get this thing somewhere in the ballpark since I think I’ve got the most expensive parts just sitting in my basement.

I know there's a bunch of threads.. I searched quite a bit, but couple questions based on what i've read... 2021 Base w/ 4" screen that I'll keep for now... One day I'll switch to the 8". Looking at upgrading the system some... I have an Alpine XA90V 5 channel amp that has hi level input...

If you street and lightly track you’re fine swapping the calipers. However, I’ve tried base master/booster, base boostr / pp master, and finally pp master/ booster in my 2021 base. Didn’t get consistent pedal until I swapped master AND booster. Vorshlag stated this way back, I tried without...

That sounds like a probable cause—someone got it buggered on the previous spring install and just sent it with the impact. I’m not sure there’s enough meat in there for a helicoil. I’d definitely try tapping and chase or replace the oem bolt, but if that doesn’t work maybe there’s enough meat...

I’m curious too, this sounds like you’ve ripped the threads out with the shitty oem bolts that double as cross threading taps. This may end up a bit more intensive than cleaning the threads with a tap.

I rotate about every hour. But I go for max life span. I get different wear front to back and side to side. Heavily dependent on the track. I’m one data point, but it would grind me seeing uneven wear require dropping $2k more frequently I get -3 in front using steeda bump steer arms (lose...

The R18/R12 combo I daily isn't near as noisy as other cars I've street driven with various GLoc pad compounds. I do wonder if it's the Titanium pad shims (from OPM) that quiets them down? I will caution--the brakes are like a on/off switch when ice cold. I wouldn't toss the keys to just...

Whoa that would be nice to get it moved back over there as long as sitting on top of exhaust manifold didn't have that adverse of an effect

At that price point go with bilstein monotubes and you won’t have to crawl around your car to adjust anything

My experience is any tire 275 or less tracks very well. 305 you have to hang onto the wheel and pay a little more attention. I’d just check my front toe with toe plates for starters

There’s definitely a load % or RPM and time component to the equation. From a fresh reset, I can flag an oil change required message in a 2 day track event.

Not uncomfortable for my 150lb bony ass to sit on with the padded sleeves you see in picture.

Thinking eye bolts came with sub harness. Brackets were cut from scrap I had laying around. This is the sub harness

Sub belt helps keep waste strap from riding up off hip bones.