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S550s are pretty damn reliable and basic in the tech department. Between Forscan and HP Tuners, you can diagnose or fix a lot of issues. And with all the ones that find a curb leaving Cars & Coffee, the used parts market is alive and well. If you’re hell-bent on a 350, just know you’re buying a...

If you’ve got the extra time and mental bandwidth to deal with the stress of fixing this or upgrading that—have at it. Just know that no matter how “done” the car is, unless you’re dropping Revology money, you’re gonna be chasing gremlins, redoing shop work, and finding new creative ways to...

This is a choice between apples, oranges, and a potato. I’ve logged seat time in every Mustang generation and a couple of Backdraft Cobras. S550 Mustang: Comfortable, modern, daily-drivable, and handles great. ’60s Mustang: A gorgeous bucket of bolts that’s never truly “done” — and you’re...

Spend the money on 1. Camber plates 2. Brake pads 3. Track time 4. A diff cooler so you're not limited to 5 minute sessions once you're capable running decent lap times

I kept it in my garage but my track day GT has moved on to a new owner. Just have a stock Mach1 now. Track time is now K24 powered Miata time.

Yes took everything I could throw at it to keep mine cool. I ran water / water wetter with a splash of antifreeze in a Mishi radiator. Switch to back to antifreeze during winter.

I completely gutted my shroud with a mishimoto radiator. I used some weather stripping to fill the ~3/4” gap around the 2 fans so they were pulling air through the radiator more effectively. I also had a monster oil cooler. But 95F idling in bumper to bumper traffic. 36k miles of street driving...

I wouldn’t go near a road course with a boosted coyote. If driven near limit, they’ll just barely stay cool stock after throwing every cooling mod in the book at them.

Every time I've strayed.. started in Miata's then BMW's caught my eye. Then back to Miatas. Then 2 S550's because I'm done with trailers and track only cars. Now I'm back in a turbo Miata with trailer for track only. I accept my fate as someone who appreciates the raw, connected, light weight...

I wouldn’t switch from a Mustang you’ve poured time into to any of those options. Not a drastic enough difference to warrant the cost. Miata is different—you can buy turn key rockets for 15-20k and run with cars that have brake jobs that cost more than my whole car.

I haven't put a lap timer in the Miata yet... My highly calibrated ass dyno says I gave up a little on the longer straights but I'm a couple seconds faster per lap due to higher average corner speeds. I'm only racing for the HPDE trophy. So it's personal preference. I get more smiles per lap...

Yup only thing I miss is that sweet coyote sound—but the turbo farts and snorts are pretty wicked too

My experience with “momentum cars” was racing spec Miata for a few years. it is a crazy scary, exciting, and immensely humbling experience. My current Miata weighs 2250lb and has same power/weight ratio as my ‘21 GT. I don’t think it’s technically a momentum car anymore.

I switched to turbo miata. Every consumable costs half as much and lasts twice as long. I love mustangs for the street but the mustang track tire budget was getting absurd.

Hey. The scroth sub you can purchase separate through scroth has clips so I would just clip it in and slide it through the seat for track days then remove it completely when done. my mustang track days are done for a bit. I got tired of trying to get a heavy street car to do track car things…...

I've never noticed either track as that hard on tires compared to any other track. Maybe PittRace is a little harder on brakes per lap than MidO. By the looks of those tires, a tire temp probe and some camber work would be a wise investment.

Tape it up and take the angle grinder to her

I dailies r18 in fronts for 35k miles-probably 10+ sets during that time Using the titanium shims from opmustang really quiets them down. Still an on off switch when cold but they are no where near as loud as other cars I’ve run these compounds in.

Not end of world for road car, but would bug me Inspect everything, measure ride height—maybe you have a torqued bushing from the spring install throwing off ride height? shift the subframe to equalize. Or just throw a crash bolt In there

Thought I'd take another stab at selling at a revised price.