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One benefit of getting a tune is you can disable cat overtemp protection which richens the air/fuel to cool the cats. If you disable this it's worth a little extra power

I have no data and make no claims to be knowledgeable. 😄 Just based on someone else's experience here with trims drifting unless FAOSC is disabled, it makes sense to me that when that feature is making adjustments, it expects cats to be present. I don't know how necessary FAOSC really is. I...

The limitation isn't necessarily the Ford PCM. The real problem is with the EPA muscling in on the tuner manufacturers. They've been bullied into removing the ability to disable FAOSC as it is an emissions feature. So you can't tell the Ford PCM to stop using the rear O2's to calibrate the...

I've run stock cats for 40k miles boosted and no problems yet, but I don't do any more than a 3rd gear pull every once in a while on the street. When it's track season, I swap to long tubes catless. I think I've done header installs 5 or 6 times now... on my back under the car on ramps. 😄

I have a 2.66 with a 3.73 rear. Car is a blast to drive, I have no issues whatsoever with the taller first gear and I love the closer ratio. The only issue I have is that at my power level and high altitude, my car crosses the line at 130mph. That is basically around 7800rpm in 3rd and I...

Some flows around the edges, but yeah, it blocks it quite a bit. I think more comes out the passenger side now and I just point that at me unless the wife is in the car.

Spek Pro gauges, with boost in a vent pod. Car was off so the gauges turn red with no pressure.

Does the pedal return all the way to the top on its own? Once it has returned, check if you can pull it higher with your hand. I had a similar pop feeling in my pedal, and then it slowly developed more and more play at the top until it wouldn't return on its own and got hard to shift. Ended...

Yes, the only wire you don't use is the power wire, just cap it off. Signal and ground from the speed sensor to factory wiring and I don't think it matters which way you wire the reverse switch. Then you will need the tune changes that I described in a previous post in this thread.

The reason is during cruise and idle, most of the air in the manifold is recycled through the bypass. The IAT's dropping when the throttle is mashed is simply the inflow of a bunch of outside air at near ambient temps which is then further cooled through the IC.

Pro tip: The pedal assembly is a lot easier to remove if you're already fixing the evaporator core.

Yeah, I'll probably go with a nut. It just makes it so any time you have to pull the clutch master, the entire pedal assembly has to come out because one of the nuts will be behind it.

Thanks for the idea. I got them out, but I'm not sure I did exactly what you meant, but it sparked the idea. I threaded a nut on and used some spacers to brace the nut against the plastic housing. Then backing the bolt out pushed the insert out of the hole. Then I had to use some pliers on...

Here's the other one. I'm thinking about cutting the master cylinder out of there and trying to deal with it from the bolt side.

I thought about that and it may be possible on that one, but the other one is impossible to reach with a drill. It's recessed way into a hole. I only took a picture of the easy one...

Can you source this part number? Can't find it on the website, but it appears to be the entire brake/clutch pedal assembly: FR3C-2450-DJ

I'm unable to loosen the two bolts holding the clutch master cylinder to the pedal assembly. Ford, in their wisdom, used brass nut inserts in the plastic and they just spin, so the bolts never loosen. I can't find a way to hold the insert to try and break the bolts loose. Anyone have a clever...

I've never used a Bowler harness or an EBC, but re-reading the old info you quoted, it sounds like the original question was solved by using both outputs of the bowler harness at the same time. So, if you follow the Bowler directions, you will have an extra purple wire leftover with the same...

Would trade for Corsa double H or X pipe

The new log looks ok to me. I do see that you have lower load and airflow numbers from the last log where it was misfiring, but I don't see any obvious reason why in the log. Timing, knock, AFR all look good.