There is another way (besides slotting the strut). You need to loosen all the suspension bolts and push the top of the strut inward toward the center of the car and hold it there while that side is re-torqued to spec. Doesn't give you much but when classing rules disallow camber plates or...
Ford indicated that the top strut to spindle bolt hole could be elongated out to allow some camber adjustment. There used to be a TSB on that. Most after-market struts come with the elongated upper hole. When I swapped to my new struts, I pushed the spindle in as far as the slot would allow...
In a pinch, you an use a pair of vice grips. The teeth will likely cut the piston, but in my experience this will not cause sealing issues. The square tool is nearly useless especially if the pistons are stuck. Buy the kit if you do your own pad swaps; well worth the money and aggravation...
Maybe you're tramlining then. But given the description of the problem, sounds like alignment/worn components. By the way, I never did like my GC C/Os, nor the Koni SAs they came with. Springs they recommended were too soft which meant I had to have the height set a max up and mx rebound up...
Ford says the strut to spindle mounting bolts are one-time use and should be replaced. So I bought a set from MM. However, I found that if you put just a little upward pressure on the strut from full droop, the splined bolts come out pretty easy. When I let the thing just hang there, not so...
x2. Lowering the front causes more negative camber. More negative camber changes the old toe setting to more toe-out. Too much toe-out makes the car unstable at speed. You may also be experiencing tramlining just from the design and width of the front tires.
I'm running -2.3* to -2.5* (set-up is temperamental so I'm happy with a small range). Generally, it's not camber that kills tires; it's excessive toe (either in or out). When you add more negative camber (from lowering or with plates/adjustment), it causes toe-out. Let's say you were at zero...
I break out the air disc and knock off the old material if changing brands or compound. Because this is primarily a street car, swapping pads/rotors every weekend gets old. Thus, I selected a pad that seems to do well for both environments without noise, and excessive rotor wear and dusting...
Surprisingly, the stock PP Pirelli P-Zeros aren't that bad; 220 summer tread wear; big blocks; 255 F/275 R. They do take a while to get warm but once they do, they stick pretty well. Wheels are heavy but unless you have lots of track and/or A/X seat time, you won't notice that as much as why...
I did Summit Point (Shenandoah) last weekend. Cold was: F-32; R-30; stock PP rubber/wheels. The car performed very well. Never lost traction; was pretty neutral. Put it on the skid-pad and found just s slight rear traction bias.
I tracked my GT last weekend. The car runs stock rubber/wheels with KW strut/shocks. Other mods are the x-pipe replacement for the resonator, and a K&N drop in. The car was more than stable in turns, straights, even on the skip-pad. Impressed with the engineering Ford put into this thing...
So back in the day of Fox Mustangs, we had the same problem; lower the car without releasing preload on the bushings and the ride quality was in the dump and heights were uneven. Same thing with the first IRS cars.
Ford designed those rubber bushings with the rubber bonded to the shell and...
In all the years I've been a car guy, never "named" a car. In fact, I've been hard pressed to give any of them a gender. Lately I've taken to distinguishing the several vehicles we have by their year of production: the 86, 01, 04, 10, 16, etc. That became confusing when we had two of the same...
I swapped out the resonator for an x and left the rest alone. I agree that as the exhaust ages, it sounds better. Now, a little south of 13K miles car has a nice idle, and mid-power and freeway cruising is exceptional from both the sound and drone perspectives. At WOT, it growls up to a rasp...
Yep - mine too; really grabs your attention. First time I hit RL in the dark, the lights startled me. Had to do it again just to check. Haven't noticed any difference during the day other than massive cut-off
I've been doing clutchless shifts for so long I forget not to do it when driving another's car - freaks them out. Also, I've found that some FWD trannys don't like it much. I stopped it on both our Prelude and MINI.
I've been working on a track shift technique; don't like heal-toe or...
Just finished a track day at Summit Point - Shenandoah circuit. Very technical: off-camber, elevation changes, cork-screws, hairpins and a couple of short straights. Ran with the stock wheels and Pirellis, KW struts/shocks, stock sta-bars, bushings, etc. Ran primarily in third and fourth. Even...