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Nope. She's an equestrian. We have an understanding. You think car stuff is expensive? Horses are off the chart. But happy wife = no grief when I mod the car.

I expect this one to cost $XXXX. She nods and adds 50%. Then off we go :thumbsup:

X2 on the 3M product. In the last year, no marms from A/X cones, flying rubber while on track or bugs. Wdll worth the cost

Last event I ran I watched tire pressure (no heat probe yet). I aired the tires down to 31/30 cold on my gauge which showed 33/32 on the sensors, and drove to the event (about an hour). It was a very hot day - about 93 ambient. Didn't check pressure once there. We do two three run sessions...

WDCR Region SCCA is running a PDX on August 26/27 at Summit Point in WV. Required class rooms, assigned instructors for novice. 4, 20 minute sessions on the Shenandoah circuit (lots of turns). Classes are Novice, Intermediate, Advanced and Time Trials - both days or select a day. Go here for...

I have MPSS 285/19 on the rear; 265/19 on the front. Run 1/8" toe out on the front; 1/4" toe in on the rear. Turn in is crisp. Cold pressure needs to be at 30 or under (I had two readings - sensors and gauge; two pound difference). I ran 31/30 cold based on sensors. 20 minute track at...

Yeah, I read that. But I couldn't rely on my gauge or the sensors. I erred on the more air side. Need to get a reliable gauge and tire heat probe.

Put some MPSS on and then took it to the track last weekend. Way more stick than expected but cold has to be in the 30/29 range on my gauge (sensors say 32/31); they get heat pretty fast and sensors say 38/37 after 20 minutes on the Point's Shenandoah circuit. On the street they perform well...

Paul - PM sent

Better struts/shocks make a huge difference. The other stuff helps but the dampers are critical.

I run 1/8" toe out and -2.5* camber in the front. -2* camber and 1/8" toe in in the rear. Seems to work well. No tramlining or other issues.

What can I say? Lowering the car or doing any mod is a personal issue - designed to make the car your own. Frankly, do it. I went with the KW v3 kit which lowered the car about 1". Looks much better and rides great. Moreover the suspension is adjustable. Happy I did it.

Summit Point, Shenandoah PDX July 15-16. This will be #2 for the season at the Point.

My experience on a different car was less than stellar. The shocks are Koni SAs and the perches are coated aluminum. The Koni's can't take a high-rate spring, and the perches corrode pretty easily. Also, not a huge fan of the Eibach springs; prefer Hypers or Dracos.

I place stands under suspension chassis mounting points.

Agreed - especially with zero% financing. Put it all on the note including some extras. None of my money at risk; left it in the market.

X2 Norm. I try to keep fit and I have a much younger wife who keeps me laughing. Not only can I handle the power of these things, but much more. Age provides a degree of wisdom and experience. So do driving schools, especially in the wet.

Longacre Toe Plates and Quickset digital C/C gauge when I'm not on a marked centerline (seldom). I don't run CC plates or other easy adjust suspension parts since they are not FS legal. So front camber is pretty much set it and run (enlarged upper strut/spindle mount); rear camber isn't easy...

I tried about 5/32" total toe-out on the front, with -2.5* camber. -2* camber on the rear and about 3/32" toe-in. Factory stager on a PP car. I also have .25" spacers on the front to help bring the track widths more in line. Skid pad indicated a very slight rear traction bias. Very hard to...

Scuff off the rotor current brake material before rebedding. Also, check the pads to be sure they are square to the rotor and the correct size.