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If i didnt have the holes in the middle of my trunk i would be getting the big wing.

Im not even positive its a missfire. More of a stumble at idle. Seams to the highest chance is when the clutch pedel is depressed or right after a rev all be it a small one. I will try and take a video of it. I havent noticed anything while rolling. I kind have a feeling its a vacuum leak more...

From what im told "green" cats wont trip a CEL. I have also seen people run a little adapter in the to stop a CEL. If you think or are boosted aftermarket cats will not hold up.

I know the clutch has a completely anemic feel to it but does it feel like nothing is there at first? When i did my clutch line even after i bleed it out the next week or two after a long sit i had to pump it a few times. I wonder if you got air in there somehow. I would think if the thoughout...

Have you checked the brake fluid level?

My weird shit light is red i ignor it 60% of the time everytime

I do think its right in the manual when you go through a tunnel or under a bridge its required to be north of 6000rpm and 80% or more throttle. If its not in the manual it should be.

No i have not. However just because a car is tuned to do something does not make it the best thing for the life of the powertrain. Auto manufacturers are getting squeezed harder and harder to meet EPA standards on emissions. And to meet those sometimes its worse for the vehicle overall. Look at...

Lugging the hell out of the motor. Final drive ratios will effect mph shift points. Rpm is always better to go off of.

The sacrifices we do in the quest of power and handling, lol.

Have not gone to the dealer yet. Just doing some research. I really dont like people working on my cars so if i cant find a vacuum leak or the reason for the stumble the shop is my last ditch efforts. Mine just sprung up in the last 2 weeks and i havent had a chance to look into it due to work.

Mine recently started to have a odd stumble at idle. Seen a that dealers were told to cycle the cam chain tensioners incase something clogged them. I have no CEL's though. Im thinking its most likely i have a slight vacuum leak.

I will be pulling my pp1 splitter as soon as my roush splitter shows up. Mine is basically pristine. I just want something more aggressive. Looks like 6 push pins and a handfull of screws.

I like the shaker. Should have been on the car to begin with.

Curious to know if there is a list or repository where you can see how many cars were made with a certain color or option(s) by year?

My shift points vary pretty wildly. Low rpms in the morning (at least in my sub at 2am) rarely over 3k in the morning when out of the sub. In the afternoon they are normally highier. My mood determines that one, lol. This is my first stick shift car. I drive truck for a living so its strange for...

Pp1 package has a lot of goodness to it. Suspension parts throughout some bushings are radial bearings, bigger radiator, torsen diff, ect. Its a little lower to the ground, bigger front splitter, ect. Definitely worth the coin.

The answer to "how much boost am i making" is always "not enough". Remember boost is really a measure of resistances. Headers, ported heads, cams, ect make the engine breathe better so "boost" will drop as a result.

Like the others said. Its going to be paid by the shops insurance (not that it matters anyway) but insist on a new keyfob and code to render the other fob useless. I know there is a module box in the car that talks to the key fob. Not sure if that needs to be swapped out or not to be 100%...

I live near Detroit and the street racing here is getting out of hand. I run into it constantly. On my way home from mustang week i had a guy try to race me for like 20 minutes at 2am. Beeping the horn, flashing his lights, hitting the gas ect. It was probably the most aggressive i have ever...