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you more than likely put the two smaller bushings on one side of the car and only one of the two larger ones will go in on the other side. they are different sizes for the front and rear. one large one small for the left and right side subframe. :cheers:

Mine have some sort of coating on them. They are shiny silver and definitely not bare steel.

Mine have some sort of coating on them. They are shiny silver and definitely not bare steel. The fronts have the flat gray bare aluminum look.:cheers:

Looks for sure like you have the front and rear springs mixed up. On a side note, that's a nice reardrop :cheers:

that's what i thought too! lowering would not change the caster, would it?

what size rear tires? It might be just me but the Michelins always look stretched. beautiful car none the less :ford:

My bumper was pulled out too because of the screws. I used an xacto knife and bevelled the edge, basically countersinking the hole, cutting away the bulge. the pins laid perfectly flat and tight to the bumper after that.

I'm probably in the minority here but I think the factory bumper with the GTPP splitter looks the best. The GT350 front end looks like a big ass smiley face. The Steeda would be my favorite of the aftermarket thus far.:ford:

need pics :cheers::cheers::cheers:

http://www.group1autoparts.com/ford/mustang/fr3z17626d/2015-year/gt-trim/5-0l-v8-gas-engine/body-cat/splash-shields-scat http://www.newtakeoff.com/2015_ford_mustang_performance_package_front_lower_spoiler_valance.aspx

I picked up some plastic push pins with the size head I liked from auto zone, and the duplicolor touch up paint, then went to town. cheap and easy!!! TBC_2520 by D.C. 83, on Flickr

I jack from about 6" back from the front of the rail on the right side. This leaves enough room to fit the jack stand at the nose of the rail.It does lift both wheels, and even when I place the jack stand and lower it down, it will still hold the right rear off the ground some. Once I go around...

Unless you have money to burn or got them for free, there's really no need to replace the liners. The area you need to trim is very small and takes less than a few minutes on each side I did a small how to write up here: http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=54829 If you do...

I have one in my basement I just took off my sub 300 mile car. I did the PP splitter and belly pan swap. The rubber basically clips in along the bottom of the belly pan. that price they quoted you seems absurd

Nope! It'll be fine. :cheers: enjoy the vacay

This afternoon the splitter came in so I jacked up the car and got to work. The install was about an hour overall and I took my time. Everything went smoothly and here's some pics from along the way. Car jacked up and on the Steeda jack rails. Untitled by D.C. 83, on Flickr I used my battery...

this!! i dropped a nut when doing my hood struts in there. you can either feel around from under the car or pop the 3 pins out of the fender liner and reach right in. i had to use a telescoping magnet to get the nut out as it was way back in there :ford:

Does switching the car to sport or track mode do the same thing that the pedalmax does with the throttle response?

I'm getting ready to do the PP lip and bellypan myself but I will not be adding another splitter like the APR. Can you just drill some holes in the existing pan and pin the two together at those 4 points? What did you have to trim to make it fit? There aren't many clear write ups from guys...

MRR 350's :cheers: