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Yes, he has come back around to say I told you so about a point that people weren't making. Price comes down once demand decreases and supply increases?? Economics professors minds are being blown all around the world.

The market dictates what a good deal is at a point in time. It doesn't make you Nostradamus to know that over market selling prices will soften as demand is fulfilled.

This is the second one but its the second one of technically the third model year. I think the value would be far different if it was an FR chassis code.

Factory oil is a full synthetic. I was always planning on switching to amsoil so I can't say that what you describe was my strategy but perhaps just a inadvertent benefit. Since my car is just a weekend toy the oil burning doesn't bother me a whole lot. If it was my daily driver I think...

Yes, not but a lot but if you think about it, they have to be a little lower than the lip of the car or else you wouldn't be able to jack on them.... If you ran SS rails you wouldn't have to do much, just a quick pass with a can of satin black spray paint, just so it blends in with the side...

even if you go stainless you probably want to paint them. They will be visible from the side of the car and the shiny stainless will probably look out of place. Just my opinion though.

Nope no reason... you may want to get the steel powder coated or at least painted though to prevent rust and have it look a little cleaner. If you plan to use the bolts that are in car already it may not work, on the steeda rails it bolts through a thin piece of metal, they might not be long...

if you are referring to the carbon fiber capsule with all the different samples for options, that only comes once you have been selected

Not sure if its just coincidence but I did break in with the factory oil that was in the car. I did my first oil change at around 1500miles, at that point I switched to amsoil. Since then I have noticed the reduction. Not sure if its related to amsoil, or to the breaking and the seating of...

Ford recommends checking at every fuel fill. Initially I was at 1qt/1000 but after break in I've been around 1qt/2500

EPA has their hands full with diesel right now but who knows, maybe up next is low volume sports cars

Ford says up to 1qt in 500 miles. Full to bottom dot is 1qt. Imo fords normal is a bit excessive but I just buy extra oil now. How many miles total on your car and how many over the three weeks?

Just an update. I finally got a shipment notification from Vorshlag but they never responded to any of my phone calls, emails or voicemails. There was some discussion on Facebook by some customers who were having similar experiences. Terry Field who is the owner of Vorshlag chose to come on...

My two go to locations for tires are tire rack and costco. I'm leery of some the other cheap places online as sometimes the tire stock is old.

I'm a big believer in "Car"ma. I have some plans in the upcoming year to buy a new toy and hopefully the car gods will treat me well for my good deed here.

Sawzall is better I find. I don't like shooting the sparks all over from the grinding wheel and it creates a ton of heat as well. Sawzall is faster, the cuts are real clean too

Hey guys, just saw on another forum that Parks Ford in Tampa Florida has a triple yellow R with electronics package for 5K adm. Hope someone here is able to cash in

Out of curiosity did you actually look at the seals in that link? The reason I ask is because the seals in the link are not the ones for our brakes. Before I posted the question I had already google searched as well as searched these forums.

Do they sell caliper rebuild kits for our cars? Specifically wondering about the seals. I am trying to get a second set of calipers powder coated and started disassembly but the seals on these brakes are much harder to remove than others I have done before. Before I rip a seal accidentally...

Glad you guys are enjoying your new wheels as well!