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Yes, a clear bra will be your best bet, however depending the rock, may still not be enough. I have had many cars both with and without PPF, and overall I prefer without for a number of reasons including that I can always correct the paint - you can't fix the PPF (with the exception of higher...

@RubyRed15 - go to Xpel.com and input your vehicle, you will get a number of pre cut 'kits' that show up. Any good PPF dealer will be able to cut the rear quarter sections out of any material you want, not just Xpel stuff. Suntek is great IMO - better than Xpel. If you don't want to go that...

Okay, so the standard commercial version of OptiCoat is Opti-Coat 2.0 - the professional options is OptiCoat Pro - it isn't called OptiGuard. The Guard products are for leather/fabric - not for paint. The primary difference between 2.0 and Pro is the length in which the coating is stated to...

Yup. I actually got VXPro 2 from 22ple for my car. Won't officially be released for another couple weeks, pretty pumped to get it on there in a couple weeks.

Thanks I will give that some consideration and shoot you a PM.

Yeah, Amazon will be fast, auto obsessed will have it to you in 3 days tops.

Yeah, don't really know anyone down there. It seems a bit crazy to me, the shipping cannot be that expensive, I truly don't understand the logic behind them not shipping here. There are several options, USPS, UPS, FedEx, DHL. I even have a FedEx account and would prepay the shipping if needed.

Yeah, contacted them, no dice. Will check out american racing, thanks!

I would like to order from them, however they do not offer shipping to Canada, fair enough. I have tried searching various vendors on here, but haven't found an alternative company who I could source a stripe kit from. Any suggestions out there?

Opti-coat has little to no rock chip protection. It is meant to repel dirt/water/grime, not protect from rock chips. It is very thin, just like your clear coat. Any rock hit will chip it immediately, just like your paint.

Great results, did your detailer give you an outline of the correction steps? It would be helpful for others who are not in the know about Opti-Coat to fully understand the prep that went in before the coating was applied - dropping Opti-Coat, or any other coating for that matter, won't yield...

eshine.ca is good. The selection is decent, but not as large as auto obsessed.com Basically the exact same prices, some stuff is cheaper at one than the other. Also, the clay step is not just for the rail dust, and yes Iron X will remove that, there will be other bonded contaminants that...

Well...... being curious. I have ordered both full sets of Ebay lights and DD lights. Upon arrival, I will do a side by side comparison, will install both on either side of the car at the same time and post up a video on it. Bit of a waste of money, but I am sure I can sell off whichever...

Yup, I go through an entire bottle of lubricant every time (mix ONR rather than a dedicated clay lubricant as that is not a cost effective option), and of course no circles. The longest I have ever had it take is 60 minutes, and that was doing an entire car, including all glass surfaces twice...

Yeah was going to say - no, do not do that, ever.

Good lord..... 2 hours to clay a car? This is very excessive.

This is my humble opinion. All things you need can be sourced at autoobsessed.com with free shipping in Canada over $150. You car is going to be so covered in rail dust that an Iron treatment is absolutely necessary. Very basic steps as follows: 1. Rinse car very well to remove all...

Looks great IMO.

Same as for the filter, make sure the rubber seal is 'lubed' with a bit of oil prior to install so it doesn't pinch on tightening.

Well, it depends on the sealant really. It would not surprise me if the install shop polishes off any LSP (last step products) to ensure the adhesives are contacting the paint directly. The thing with sealants, coatings, waxes is that they are intended to prevent things to stick to them...