Im cheap also. I am going to start with the low end. Replace stock sub with 2 10s, maybe Daytons or Sundowns. Powered by SoundCubed 1200.1 and their amp kit. Zenclosure rear firing box. :headbang::shrug:
Seems at this point it would be a waste to put in the factory sub since it sucks anyway. Go aftermarket and be happy. You can still use factory enclosure if you want.
I get that, I tried to use a Epicenter in a Jeep to magically make bass out of a Infinity system. it sucked.
But when people say they do something they are happy with, I will listen.
Is there a vid showing molex cable install behind driver kickpanel? How tight is it down there?
So I know about the post amp processing and why u should grab the signal from between the radio and amp. All of which look like a pain in the ass to me, but I get the whys. There are also people who have added subs successfully by getting signal from rears. So for just subs, is getting signal...
I have used Haggerty on my Camaro Haggerty and Grundy quoted me for my 17 Mustang. I did meet all of the requirements, but I drive the mustang alot so I just went with Farmers. It was less than the 14 Ram 4x4 I traded in...
I had a 10 Camaro 2SS/RS. It was fun, now I've just bought my first Ford. I like the mustang more for a daily driver. I got a way better deal on the Mustang than I ever could have a Camaro.
Would like to wake this thread up!!! I am looking at some color matched engine bay parts. Trying to see how much color match is too much. Is there another engine bay thread?
Show them dressed up engine bays...
I am actually ok with highs, I would love to know how much better the bass is without new amp. Swapping the sub is cake, grabbing the right signal for an amp seems like a PITA!
I wonder if anyone has ever tried to filter out bass from door speakers?