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As long as you know the inside hub dimensions of the wheel you're looking at, and the mfr has the correct dimensions for the GT350 hub, then they can make what you need. ARP makes a wheel stud in the correct size and pitch for the GT350 (don't remember those specs at the moment) in 3" length...

Price questions aside, I wouldn't hesitate to put another set of MPSS on, if the 4s is not yet available. They have a more than adequate life cycle for a high performance street tire. I've used them for years on several different platforms and they have always worked and lasted well. Also...

This is not a direct answer, but consider contacting Paul @ PK Autodesign. He's a regular on this site, and offers exactly what you're asking for, and is likely to be more than happy to chat with you about your specific needs. There are others who can provide similar guidance.

I have to agree that green is not the way to go with the GT350 platform, except if the car is white and you add other green accents. Even then, I don't think there will be much love. The suggestions for a burnt (darker) orange has possibilities, and I'm a personal fan of the blueish gunmetal...

Recognizing that there's little value in yet another oil-debate thread, I keep on trying to understand why there's no love (and a lot of hate) for the MC oil. I get it that the MC oil is pricey, but that's irrelevant given the cost of the "better" oils.

I won't speak for Paul, but Ford recommends changing the OE differential fill after 2 hours of track use, or a set number of original miles (IIRC). As for the tranny, there's much discussion about the OE automatic transmission spec oil not being too great for shifting smoothness, overall...

In! Thanks for the organization.

You can get a trans temp readout now through ForScan with the Tech and Base transmission; the sensor is there, just not enabled at the factory. Like you, I've only seen the reference to a factory differential cooling option through the posts today. Without temp data and not knowing your...

Tranny will go into limp mode by 280 F. Track operating temps with the factory cooler tend to be around 220-240 F, although that will vary by driver, track, ambient conditions, etc. Daily driving with the factory cooler keeps transmission temps below 200 F. I don't have data on the...

At the risk of being skewered for contributing to "turning this into another oil thread", would anyone mind providing the science behind the MC 5w50 "sucks" conclusion that seems widely shared across the enthusiast forums? I've gone a bit blind reading through the countless threads lambasting...

1) How many miles before first oil change? ~250 Still have the original filter but haven't opened it yet to see what's in there. 2) How many miles before racing? Haven't raced, but had ~1,000 before my first track day. 3) How many miles before dyno? Never been on a dyno. 4) How many miles...

I don't recall anyone doing the drill 'n tap, but there may have been some discussion about pros and cons in the various threads. I concluded that the transmission is high enough in the tunnel that the line connecting to the OE drain hole is not in any great danger of ground contact. It's at...

A lot has happened since I started this thread last year, most notably that Ford "released" a partial transmission cooling package, and every other aftermarket possibility has faded away. And, it is now a bit easier to swap transmissions and install the factor cooling components, though there...

I'll still suspect a leak in the lines of some type, and that's likely to be addressed next. But, another failed sending unit . . . strange or within the norm for the number of cars out there? Any idea if the Voodoo unit is unique to this engine, or shared with other motors? I didn't get a...

I've been chasing an oil leak(s) for some time. I suspected some problem with the oil filter seal to the distribution block, or possibly where the cooler lines connect to the distribution block (did not appear that there was a leak in one of the lines). Long story short, I finally punted and...

The manual recommends changing the diff fluid after 2 hours of track use, IIRMC. Whether that translates into time or miles for street-only driving, I won't speculate. But, when I changed my fluid after a few track events and approximately 3500 miles, it was quite discolored and the magnetic...

Good question; I'll be running a set of these tires soon. I've only ever seen the general 28 lbs psi recommendation in the supplement, with no distinction made between the MPSS or PSC (as far as I can recall).

Likewise; I've never experienced rust between the rotors and pads. But, if there's a TSB, something is going on. There's plenty of rusting going on in other places though: nuts/bolts, joints, bushings, and so on.

I'd also like to learn some details about the stated problem and fix.

Based on the standard that you always bleed first from the point furthest from the master cylinder, I always bleed the outside first thinking that this will pull fresh fluid through the entire caliper system and be most effective in expelling any trapped air.