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I made my own easy as hell

Did you upgrade to whole new system? And why?

Vac test will prove actuator is working but preload you have to check the actuator arm, mine seemed like it shut and had spring when moving butterfly but upon further inspection I found the arm had no preload and was fluttering the butterfly due to not enough preload slamming it shut plus it...

Y yoUd have to remove blower and move actuator arm, with valve closed the actuator arm should have some spring tension on it

What size pulley is that?

Check your pre-load on the actuator my Whipple came from factory with no pre-load on actuator and caused all types of issues

Yes I did the actuator had no preload on it, once I repositioned it to add some preload to it all boost issues where fixed even the light switch like boost I was getting, much more linear now

I’m currently running 93 and meth/ water Mix and catless LT I see 19.5 in the mid range and 20.5 in the upper range with about 12psi thinking of spray M5 meth and dropping to a 3.375 since I found a local VP supplier

I’m on a 93 meth tune just wondering how low of a pulley You whipple guys are running with catless LT, meth, STOCK block...I’m on a 3.5 right now

Do you power shift it?

I did ask the question to whipple when I sent the pics about possible over travel, they claim it’s suppose to travel that far but the metal it’s hitting should be clear of that travel so there recommend fix is Dremel down where it’s hitting creating the dimple, as well as cutting the tip of the...

Found the issue, actuator arm rubbing and so much so it wore a little dimple into the metal to get hung up on, just spoke with whipple and waiting to hear back about the solution

If you get in the throttle below 4000 there’s boost all the way to redline but if you try to throttle hard above 4000 no boost or if your high rpm shifting if the next gear is grabbed above 4000 there’s no boost in that next gear.... I’m interested in you linkage issue, how’d you fix? It kinda...

Been on for a year now, it’s always been a issue but I don’t think I discovered it right away, I’m working with PBD to resolve, feels like it’s a bypass valve issue but rob at PBD is trying to fix in tune... one thought I had was maybe the crank case breather I swapped out with stock oil cover...

so for some reason I get no boost if I stab the throttle anywhere above 4000 rpm, actuator is working properly, bypass valve doesn’t seem to be hanging up I just can’t rape my head around it.... help!! This can’t be by design

I’m running 21.5 degrees of timing on 93 at 12psi and motor is happy

You know what it is!

Which kit do you run? What’s it using for reference to know when to spray, boost, injector signal, MAF sensor?

So is the connection in the head unit your boost reference? Or are you spraying in the plastic elbow and head unit?

It does but I want to pulley down which will give me fuel issues plus my IATs are on the high side