No longer for sale
No longer for sale
No longer for sale
No longer for sale
Year: 2018
Make: Ford
Model: Mustang
Trim: GT 300A PP1
Color: Black Exterior / Black Interior
Transmission: 6 speed manual
Mileage: 11,755
PRICE:
Smiles enhancers:
Roush Phase 2 Supercharger kit – purchased from...
I'm not sure how much data you need, but if you're just piecing together 1 or 2 modules this database can be helpful. https://cyanlabs.net/asbuilt-db/
I've also had luck searching for a car with the options you need on a site like CarGurus, grab the VIN and hit the ford website to get the full...
The forum won't let me message you for some reason. I've got an '18 GT performance pack, mt82, black, black leather, sync 3, Brembos, currently at 12k mile (if I remember right - it's under a cover in the garage since it's snowing in IL). The car has a Roush blow, exhaust, wheels, and some...
I assume you're talking about gear nibble that you can feel in the shifter and hear when you grab a gear? Mine did that when it got cold and a fluid change with some good juice seemed to eliminate 90% of it.
You need something like this for your camera. I don't know why they don't build this into the harness. I assume it's because those conversion harnesses are universal and work for multiple vehicles...
Just some general advice. I would search for Sync 3 upgrade on Youtube and see if you can find one of the 20-30 minutes videos showing the swap in detail. It'll really help to familiarize you with the parts. I'd also search threads here, there are several that show detailed pictures and list all...
You'll need a conversion harness for both of those. The conversion harness will have a 3-4 foot pigtail that you'll need to run to the hub. The other plug appears to be the Sync 1 APIM plug, which plugs into the conversion harness and then another plug on the harness will go into your 8"...
That's a worthwhile mod. I guess my point is to not waste your time/$ chasing hp through various bolt-ons. If you want to go fast start with boost, and then do stuff like headers/fuel system/custom tunes vs. the other way around.
Personally I would skip the FBO deal and go straight to boost. 10psi on a bone stock Mustang is simple and way more fun. Unless you're going for a micro N/A record I think you're wasting your time putting too much thought into intake/exhaust/E85.
If I'm following correctly, you can use the donor USB hub as long as it's the correct version which has two USB slots and a harness slot to power the hub. You'll need two new USB cables, one will run from the APIM to the hub and the other will run from the hub to the bezel.
Take a look a the discussion on page 100 of this thread. Your donor APIM/ACM are likely programmed to provide low level input to an amp instead of directly to the speakers.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/sync-3-swap-its-all-in-here.82973/page-100#post-2451776
I'm pretty new to this myself, but I have some really recent experience.
What all have you changed so far in Forscan? Have you reviewed the FCIM table, particularly 7A7-01-01 xx**-xxxx-xxxx ? I had to adjust that value to recognize the centerstack because my screen wasn't recognizing volume...
It might work, but I wouldn't. I just ordered the two cables and hub from a Ford dealer in STL and it was like $120 shipped. The USB hub doesn't have USB-C but it's an OEM part, which that doesn't appear to be.
the hub I used was HU5Z-19A387-C, and the cables were FR3Z-14D202-B and FR3Z-14D202-A.
I have the AR924 "Crossfire" wheels on my car. 20x9 and 20/10.5 if I recall correctly. They've been on the car for a few years now and they've been good.
I'm late to the party, but I have a Z17 pads on the front of my car with Brembos. They stop plenty well for normal street driving and keep the wheels 100x cleaner than factory pads. I kept my factory pads in case I ever hit the track, but they are way too grabby/dusty for daily duty IMO.
Also...