why is that DRL not legal in aus, from what i can gather from the ADR's as it is enclosed and in an enclosure with the standard headlights which is type-tested for it, it is more than suitable, if it is a separate LED bar that is not OEM or not incorporated into the headlight surround then it is...
the problem is not the sequential tail lights, it is the non-constant brake light. if the inside bar stayed on then it wouldn't be a concern at all. the ADR's say that a brake light must remain on when the brakes are on.
i believe they are still red, they changed it so that the outside bar flashes amber by using a green bulb in there, like what most of the euro's do. but do not rely on what mustang motorsport are doing as stated it is a private import, there are different rules for private imports and aus...
there is a difference between a private import and a factory compiled car for the ADR's, YOU need to check the ADR's to see if the percentage of visible area is acceptable.
download the ADR's from your state transport department website and find out for yourself what you can and cant do...
i do believe i read in another post you liked the chrome and stuff so if you are thinking of getting parts you can get the tail light assembly's with chrome strips
FR3Z-13404-B RHS tail light assembly with chrome strip
FR3Z-13405-B LHS Tail light assembly with chrome strip
ok the sequential tail lights have a lighting control module FR3Z-13C788-B which grabs the plug they plug into the Euro spec tail lights and does some electronic trickery to output the signals to the wiring harness on the USDM lights.
if you want to do the conversion it is a matter of buying...
no timm, if you ordered here in aus you would have a sept 2016 date, thats a year + 12 weeks. just a quick Q, if you ordered a rhd GT in the US would it be the same spec as the euro/aus or do you still get stuff like hood vents, seq tail lights and stuff like that?
ok the fact is that you only need metric,
i was making a reference to murphy's law. if you have 2 options, it'll always be the 2nd of the 2, like plugging in a USB plug.
really, so are they are not using the same measurment system as industrial powerhouses Liberia and Burma, i always thought they had it going on.
cmon america, join the dark side, we have decimals.
from page 132 of the UK owners manual
"TOWING A TRAILER
WARNING
Your vehicle is not approved for
trailer towing. Never tow a trailer with
your vehicle."
so maybe a towbar for bikes is fine, or towing a boat, canoe, another car... so long as it is not on a trailer.
buy yourself a decent set of kinchrome or sidchrome ones, that have both, a good quality set will make life alot simpler due to less ratchet swing needed, better grip on the bolt, less likely to round a bolt etc etc. i'm pretty sure it will be SAE as even my holden VZ SSZ all the block is SAE as...
yes it will be, for how much though is anybodies guess. i'm guessing if your young buying a sports car it's going to cost a lot, when i was young i bought a supra, 4k a year just for insurance really sucked.
I'd prefer to have some form of engine ventilation, something along the lines of hood vents would be a good idea, possibly even towards the front to extract heated air from the cooling fans on the rad and from the front end of the exhaust manifold... maybe near the front of the hood, it could...
wasn't there overheating temps with the EB a couple of months back in the american summer temps, mainly due to the closed hood, they had to insulate a fuel line or something because under hood temps were getting too high.