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RubberyDuck..... I started with a JL audio 600/6 to Hertz Mille pro's with the supplied crossovers. It sounded very good,but very limited to adjustments with the passive crossover. Still,No noise. Then I upgraded again to a Helix P-Six.A slight jump up in power,but with full control.Time...

I thought the DSR1 was deemed crap by most that have tried them. Some were software complaints,but most have said that they add too much noise in the system. Unfortunately in this game,if you want good sound you are going to have to step up the quality of equipment.

I used Ken and Rob at Palm Beach Dyno. Rob "the tunemaker" Shoemaker is one of the best around. The big turn-off from Lund is that the N-Gauge that you are about to spend $450 on is locked to him.Not only your car's vin number,but him.No other tuners files work with it. PBD has a great combo...

What tweeter? Which model I can say that most aluminum domes are going to bite your head off.They will be harsh and over bearing. Tweeters with silk domes seem to work well.

It would be best to crimp the pins and touch a dab of solder on them. The male pins get used on the female plug and the female pins get used on the male plug. Did you look at the plug on the website...

Mouser part # 31067-1010, #31067-1040...and the pins are 571-1393366-1 and 571-1438299-4.

Autometer 48010

This is what worked for me. https://www.ebay.com/itm/173029251272?hash=item284958d8c8. When in Forscan,it tells you when to flip the switch to read the rest of them.

I think a new pillar cover from tasca ford parts is like $50. Or you could just put a plastic plug in the hole if you didn't like it

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/ngauge-mounting-solution.117855/

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/tweeter-harness-metra.97876/#post-2143445 Those are the factory plugs. And yes you should put the caps in to protect the tweeters.Just crimp the leads and cover with shrink tubing.Soldering would be better.

Why did you cut the plug............UGGGGGGGGGG. I have posted somewhere on the site here the part numbers for the plugs and pins that ford uses. It just kills me to see factory harness's chopped up

Going into the ACM (audio control module) with forscan has nothing to do with a tune was loaded or not.But if the dealer flashes an update that would revert any changes you made to the settings to flatten it out. Back to the head unit.The head unit itself is really not that bad.In fact it will...

There is nothing wrong with the head unit. It is all your grounds or wiring somewhere along the line.

I was in the same boat with the JL stuff.It just doesn't have enough power.75 watts @ 4 ohms is not going to make you happy. I would say it needs at least 100 to get where you want it. I wound up ripping it all out and going with a Helix P-Six.It's 120 watts @ 4 ohms and six channels.I also went...

Thanks. I would forget the spacer.I was trying to make it look nice,But it pushes the gauge over more. So the best bet would be to cut the stud in half down to about 3/8".

My 3 year Ford Racing/Roush warranty was up this winter.So now it is time to look to the aftermarket. Ken and Rob at Palm Beach Dyno have a package deal for the Roush setup which has the Ngauge,the IAT harness and the tune for $1,000.The Rob Shoemaker tune alone is worth the price of...

The Base wiring is different,I thought that someone posted the plugs/pinouts. I never saved it as I had no use for it....sorry.

Re-read post #6

Look up some of my old threads. I have posted the part numbers for the plugs and pins in there. Most are sourced from mouser or digikey