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Extremely small, if any, gains from doing a ported intake on the stock GT350 intake manifold and the cost to do so ($1,350.00 + shipping) makes absolutely no sense. You'd be better off buying a Ford Racing Cobra Jet (Going to require lowering the motor with aftermarket motor mounts and/or...

I want to see what effects doing these modifications will do in regards to how much power can be made safely on the stock internals. Obviously, the stock rods in this motor are the major weak-link due to high cylinder pressures created by the 12:1 compression ratio of the motor and then adding...

Making some light progress here. Got the MMR billet head dowels in the block, put on Cometic head gaskets, installed ARP head studs, and got the heads on and torqued down today.

http://www.modularmotorsportsracing.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4_30_31&products_id=958

What I'm saying that if you're going forced induction, the best route is to do what I'm describing because it gives you headroom and safety. Every single guy who goes forced induction thinks that the base kit/base boost is all they will ever need, LOL. One of two things then happens: 1. They...

Going to second this. QA1 is a quality piece and can be had for a decent price below retail if you shop around/ask for a better #.

Go look at the Mustang community as a whole and you will see it's mostly a bunch of cheap-asses always trying to "get by" with as little as possible. It's true. You may not like it and it may not specifically fit you or whatever, but that doesn't make it not true. Congrats on your setup staying...

Must have been a while ago because they currently state that they will no longer do so.

They provide a "bare-bones" kit because they know most Mustang guys are cheap-asses. If low 700rwhp on 93-octane is your thing and you're never, ever going to turn the thing up, have at it I guess, LOL. The tunes that come from those manufacturers are junk and are made to be stupid safe so the...

Can you "get away with it?" Yes. Is it smart? No. Why in the hell would you go cheap on your fuel system on a car like this? Makes no damn sense what-so-ever.

Needs the following: MFP Crank Support (if Procharger isn't including one in their kits) ID1300X's Fore Triple Pump Fuel system Anything forced induction running on stock pumps and a BAP is just asking for trouble, especially if something goes out under load.

PM sent.

That is NOT a Hellion kit. That is a HELLHORSE Performance kit. BIG difference there, especially on the turbos utilized in the kits.

I'm not sure on the strut tower brace and whether it will fit under that or not. We haven't been able to mock it up yet as I was waiting for the heads to get back. In regards to cost, I believe their base price for the non-intercooled version (what I have) is like $4k. You can reach Martin...

Stock short-block/compression from that standpoint. Wanting to see what the limit of the stock internals are N/A. Eventually will go with forged internals/sleeved block. Valves are stock, but FED did do a valve job. Valve seals are MMR Extreme Duty Street/Race Valve Seals. Springs are...

Obviously it's billet. Accepts the stock TB. Has it's own fuel rails. Has an SFI-certified burst pannel. You can get them in the polished version like mine or black anodized. Supposed to better than any current intake manifold on the market, ported or not. We'll see. FED is only like an hour...

Or, just have it shipped to them and then have them ship it to you in packaging that doesn't have any logos on it.

Well boys, as promised here they are, fresh from Frankenstein Engine Dynamics: Going in there will be L&M Engine's FPC Voodoo spec cams: And we'll be topping it all off with Frankenstein Engine Dynamic's new billet intake manifold: Stay tuned for more information as we get these...

Pretty much it. I believe there is a "Shelby Mike" brand out there, but didn't seem appealing to me at all. I went with all MMR components.

If you are doing OPG's and CS, why in the hell would you not upgrade the arms, tensioners, etc? An extremely small price to pay for added insurance and might as well do it while the front cover of the car is off and you're already touching those parts to begin with.