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I am not, I know a torque plate is desirable for extremely accurate readings for when the block is actually under torque from the heads, but with or without a torque plate, around 5 thou out of round seems a bit ridiculous.

Hey guys, Checking in with a quick question for those who have assembled blocks. I got a gen 2 shortblock here waiting to replace my gen 1 and after checking bores, it seems one cylinder is almost 0.005-0.006" out of round near the top of the bore. All bores measured within 1.5-thou of each...

Mine tops 4th out at right under 170, but I'm normally not ringing it all the way out to redline on the street. The motor can do 7500rpm but lower compression keeps my peak power around 6000-6500. I'm only ever going to 7500 on the track to keep shifting to a minimum. And yes, the 2 overdrives...

When you say interchiller, is that one of those systems that uses the AC as an extra cooler? I've heard of those systems before and have definitely looked into them. Getting my AC lines to fit around the coyote, which almost squishes against my strut towers, is difficult. Mine will also sit at...

I do have an 8.8! Unfortunately, where my first four gears are is perfect for the car's setup, so changing the rear gear to something longer would give me some seriously wack ratios. Believe it or not, I got the "long" 5th gear too at 0.68 lmao. Stock 3.27 rear gear. A T56 would have been nice...

As a small update to this forum, the MMR springs work wonders. No VCT issues of any sort. As for @deanm11, stock cams. My issue would have mostly been with boost, but MMR felt that 11 psi should be fine, 15 psi is where lockouts start becoming needed with the springs.

Since nobody answered the question with real world numbers, I will be adding water wetter this weekend. I already run straight water in both the motor and SC, so I will be running the "ideal" setup for Water Wetter and can simply share any differences. My car has a Yote in it with VMP's 2.3L...

Not *exactly* what I was looking for but good start! I'll give the tech line in those documents a call. The head stud holes look the same between 2 and 3 but still other minor differences, plus unclear which gen timing set I would have to run with a gen 3 block with gen 1 heads. Thanks tho!

Hello everyone! Looking for information about coyote blocks/heads. I've heard the basics about "Frankenstein" builds and all that, but never looked into them too much. My current situation is I'm sitting on a Gen1 coyote swap that will eventually get upgraded to ~800hp with room for 1k (plenty...

My TKX grinds out of the box, I recommend recording all of your measurements when you index your bellhousing. Should make any needed warranty work easier to get. Of course I hope you don't need it! But disappointment fell on me with my $5k grinder setup. Good luck 👍

My '97 Coyote swap just got a TREMEC TKX behind it and it grinds under power at low RPM, in nearly any gear. The grind is definitely build-related, it sounds like there is improper engagement of the gears or lack of oil where oil should be (yes it is full of recommended oil lol). Multiple shops...

Hello everyone! I am here asking for advice/experience, as I have seen many different takes on this issue. Lets get straight to the point: I have my engine torn down to the long block (just block and rotating assembly) and purchased a good few upgrades just to extend my engines life for a few...

No I totally see what your saying, and I agree with the drivetrain stress. Somehow my T45 has held on for dear life. I'm very much considering just doing the minor stuff for rebuild, like I mentioned, and going for a TKX transmission instead of forged internals. I'm more into track racing...

I totally agree! The problem is that I've been doing what you described (junkyard coyote set to 650ish hp) for a year already. Its not like Im insatiable right now with power, but I had a major tick appear that warrented the motor coming out. (Turned out to be a header gasket but you cant get...

I def could as a way around the expensive machining. But the point is I dont wanna drop that extra amount of money anyway. Its an sn95 chassis, I can only go so far before something folds. I need extra cash to build upon other parts of the car like braces, axles, ect. Believe it or not I...

I know what you mean, the only reason I ask is because I do want to do it right. BUT, along with the wait, there are other issues. I know the gen 1s prefer to have sleeves for 4 digits and I've even heard of the gen 1 cylinder walls collapsing at 8-900. This is dumb to say when building for...

So you're saying at 800whp you had the stock main cap bolts for the crank and it worked out fine? Good to hear. Also good to know I need to replace the cam bolts when they come out.

Hello all, yes this is maybe the millionth time you've heard this question! I'm just trying to get a more specific answer. I have a 97 car with a supercharged coyote in it (VMP 2.3L Gen2R) and since it dropped a lifter I'm going for a simple rebuild. Forged internals, obviously, but what about...