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I also DD a top of the line 2012 Tacoma and this "base" blows it away. Figure I'll add Katskins later if I decide I want leather, and since it's not a DD I wasn't interested in the extras. Plus this way I can try to talk myself into the roush and still be around $40k all in.

That was my problem too. When I was shopping I had a trade, so the only thing to negotiate was my trade value since I was pretty much set at the x-plan pricing minus rebates. I had set a number for my trade and went dealer to dealer and told them the first one to give me what I asking was...

Which puts it right in line if they are giving an extra 2k on the trade. It's just a game. The deal is probably fair. Another dealer might give you 10k on the trade and sell the "new" car for 28k. Which still leaves you at 30k otd before ttl

I don't there ever is financial justification to buy a newer mustang. That said if you can afford it then go for it. Personally I agree that paying cash is the best if its not your only means of transportation. BUT my investment account made 21% last year so it didn't make financial sense to...

Figured that I could chime in here. I bought my 18 GT with the 10sp. I have always owned at least one manual since my first car 20 years ago. So I am still trying to get use to it, but overall its pretty good. There is a delay when in "D" as it down shifts a couple of times before settling...