What changes should I make to my cylinder head?

[KKell83]

Well, long story short, I change some phasers and had the 2nd tensioner fail on me while priming the engine resulting in the driver cams go 90* out of sync and valves kisses the pistons.

Heads are stock 53k miles Gen 2's with newly added PAC 1234x valve springs and I did a valve lapping job. Car made 1012w/671w at 20-22psi, D1X car.

Well, due to this issues, there's no why I'm going to trust the stock valves even if it is reading 200+psi per cylinder (after I re-timed it).

What should I do now. Should I just install factory sized valves with Ferrea or another brand and relap (is that even possible); should I send the head in for new valves and a valve job or should I double down and get all that plus a CNC porting?

I almost fell out of my chair when I saw prices over 5k and truly I dont want to pay that since I am not aiming for more power but I do want it to be reliable.

Any help is appreciated as well as shops people use, I.E.: Headgames Motorsports, Livernois, etc

Thanks

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[engineermike]

Can 5.2 heads be swapped onto a gen2? They’re reasonably priced and have larger valves and cnc ports, same phaser design, no gdi. May be something to check into.

 

[KKell83]

I have thought about that as well. From my research, it seems like cams would need to be changed as well as followers for the 5.2 to keep the valve train in check. If I go with a predator head I believe they already have better valves (still have to validate that).

I do have a gen3 5.2L shortblock so the larger valves make sense but with the addition of the cams, that just ramps up the overall cost.

Can 5.2 heads be swapped onto a gen2? They’re reasonably priced and have larger valves and cnc ports, same phaser design, no gdi. May be something to check into.

 

[accel]

Well, long story short, I change some phasers and had the 2nd tensioner fail on me while priming the engine resulting in the driver cams go 90* out of sync and valves kisses the pistons.

Heads are stock 53k miles Gen 2's with newly added PAC 1234x valve springs and I did a valve lapping job. Car made 1012w/671w at 20-22psi, D1X car.

Well, due to this issues, there's no why I'm going to trust the stock valves even if it is reading 200+psi per cylinder (after I re-timed it).

What should I do now. Should I just install factory sized valves with Ferrea or another brand and relap (is that even possible); should I send the head in for new valves and a valve job or should I double down and get all that plus a CNC porting?

I almost fell out of my chair when I saw prices over 5k and truly I dont want to pay that since I am not aiming for more power but I do want it to be reliable.

Any help is appreciated as well as shops people use, I.E.: Headgames Motorsports, Livernois, etc

Thanks

i thought coyote was interference free engine. which in part is confirmed by your piston picture with protrusions for valves.

 

[robvas]

i thought coyote was interference free engine. which in part is confirmed by your piston picture with protrusions for valves.

Valve reliefs don't automatically make it (or not make it) an interference engine

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