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Fried PCM?

5ohcoyote

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So I recently did OPG/CS and a Whipple. Dropped the car off to a shop to fix the timing because I was a couple teeth off and didn’t want to tear Into the car again. In the process of me putting it back together I apparently pinched a wire going to the cam position sensor. There are about 20 codes and it’s misfiring. Anyways they’re saying I fried my PCM. Does that sound about right?
Anything else it could be?
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sigintel

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Pics or didnt happen.
codes or didnt happen.
What shop or didnt happen.

“Pinched” a wire?
Smells phishy. Someone tell you this?

“Coupe teeth off”?
... uhhh puhfishy.
If you are a couple teeth off, the heads get trashed since these are interference motors.

Pretty sure you can strip the cam sensor wires and short them together and that ECU circuit browns out until the short is removed.
Repair damaged wires and bench test sensor n done.

Most obvious is most likely:
You fired engine with bad timing.
Bent valves no longer close on combustion or otherwise still not timed properly.

Get the car back from that shop ASAP and find an El Paso forum member w a Whipple or otherwise has someone trustworthy. Or get the Ford:helms manual and follow the timing procedure again yourself.
 
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5ohcoyote

5ohcoyote

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Yes they showed me the wire. The place is called the auto clinic and I’ll get a picture of the codes tomorrow if it’s not fixed lol. Also yes I’ll be bringing it somewhere else if that’s the case.

But I had the shop double check the timing because I thought it was off and they said I got lucky the valves were fine. Did a leak down test and everything.
 

F1scamp

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There is no real way to know how far your timing is off. The only way to check timing is to take the chains off and go through the procedure. You trust the shop enough to do the timing, but not enough to trust their diagnosis? Seems odd. Only thing I can add is did they do or have the capability to do a crank relearn?
 
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5ohcoyote

5ohcoyote

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There is no real way to know how far your timing is off. The only way to check timing is to take the chains off and go through the procedure. You trust the shop enough to do the timing, but not enough to trust their diagnosis? Seems odd. Only thing I can add is did they do or have the capability to do a crank relearn?
The only reason I question it is because I told lund about the situation and they didn’t think it was the pcm at all.. The shop has good reviews but I’m not having a good experience with them. Haven’t met their own dead lines, told me the tune couldn’t load to the car, I show up and it loads just fine.

As far as the timing, that’s what they told me, it was a couple teeth off. And they asked if I messed with the secondary chains because apparently they were off as well. But I never touched them. And I don’t believe they did a crank re learn. After they finished the timing I was going to take it, but it was misfiring and they were was no throttle response whatsoever.

I’ll update you guys once I get a call that they “fixed” it
 

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F1scamp

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Sounds like the timing is still off...Sucks man, if you were in the area I would have you bring it over to the shop.
 
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5ohcoyote

5ohcoyote

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Sounds like the timing is still off...Sucks man, if you were in the area I would have you bring it over to the shop.
Yeah I just talked to a friend of mine here that has a shop and said the same thing.. What’s the likelihood of me getting my money back from the other shop if it’s still the timing?
 

sigintel

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That is TOTAL FUCKING BULLSHIT about the secondary chains.

Get the car back from that shop ASAP!
Dont run the motor.
Get some friends and go in strong and push or drag the car physically out.
Hire a tow truck.
Do whatever to get your car back cause you are getting FUCKED.

They will use the lure of you trying to salvage the money they already took to try and get more money from you.
 

esacteksab

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I didn't follow the steps correctly the first time when doing OPG/CG and was a tooth or two off. It's easy enough to fix yourself with a giant f'n wrench (there's a flat spot on the camshaft). Yes, a metric shit-ton of codes. Car _will_ run, it'll pop like a SOB.

As to frying the PCM by pinching the wire...sounds like bullshit.
 
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5ohcoyote

5ohcoyote

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Here are the codes. And still there after new pcm
 

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BlackandBlue

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Here are the codes. And still there after new pcm
Over time you will learn to trust the guys on the forum. Most of them are extremely knowledgeable and have been screw a few times.

Eat the loss and get the car to someone you can trust.

I hope you get it fixed.
 
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5ohcoyote

5ohcoyote

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Over time you will learn to trust the guys on the forum. Most of them are extremely knowledgeable and have been screw a few times.

Eat the loss and get the car to someone you can trust.

I hope you get it fixed. The codes didn't show up.
yeah I’m gonna have to. Was really hoping this headache would’ve been over today
 

Ruiner46

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They showed you a damaged wire? You have codes for cam sensors and the ignition coils in there, so it sounds like more than one wire in the harness was damaged. If that is the case, then I would carefully unwrap the harness in that area and check/repair everything. Of course, if the shop messed with the secondary chains, and they don't know what they are doing, they could cause all kinds of havoc...
 

BlackandBlue

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They showed you a damaged wire? You have codes for cam sensors and the ignition coils in there, so it sounds like more than one wire in the harness was damaged. If that is the case, then I would carefully unwrap the harness in that area and check/repair everything. Of course, if the shop messed with the secondary chains, and they don't know what they are doing, they could cause all kinds of havoc...
That is excellent advice. From what I understand a BUS style control system can use a few wires for multiple sensors. Not one wire per sensor anymore. One bad wire could create multiple codes on that loop.

You can break a wire and not break the insulation. You can break a wire and still have contact until it’s under load(it’s terrible). If they can’t figure it out then you will need to find a service manual and start pinning out the ECU to find what wire is bad. I would guess a good mechanic could narrow it down pretty quick.

Also check to make sure a ground is not loose somewhere. I don’t have a wiring schematic so I don’t know if that loop is grounded separately or not.
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