Recent content by Walt

My 2017 already had the newer style axle nut. I've ordered new + the thrust washer and new hub bolts. Dealer wanted 40$ for that stupid washer so it better be important.

Thanks luc that is very kind of you. Customs might still charge me 30$ to do the paperwork even if it's a "gift" so I'll have to look into it. I read somewhere else that it's M22x1.5 but maybe that is for the front? I'm gonna check the hardware store first if they have these of quality steel. I...

If there is enough space for a second set of axle nuts, I might reuse the old one as a jam nut. I checked opmustang but unfortunately it's 50$ shipping + import fees to my location. A bit steep for 2 simple nuts so thanks for the tip.

What kind of jam nuts did you get?

What brand would you recommend to replace it with then? I feel like choosing between pestilence and plague here.

I will definitely mark the nuts from now on. But as far as I could tell the one with the broken bearing is still tight. You recon it loosened a slight bit? Or just a bad bearing to begin with? What torque do you use for the rear axle nuts? The factory spec of 98 ft lb + 45° turn?

I did check if the nut was loose, I set my torque wrench to slightly higher than 100 ft-lbs and it clicked without moving when tightening. I didn't account for the 45° turn but atleast it wasn't "looser" than that. I don't have a lot of street miles but I have done ~10 road course trackdays so...

I haven't taken them apart yet, I noticed this in an install video but maybe they didn't apply the threadlocker previously. I ordered Motorcraft HUB352 from rockauto which are Ford I suppose? Are those good? If there is an upgrade or better version available I'll get those next time. (I order...

You mean it will just loosen using a regular breaker bar? I thought that you will strip/snap bolts without applying heat to red locktite

I'm replacing a rear wheel hub and the stock bolts that come out don't have any kind of threadlocker applied. The replacement bolts from Ford do have red threadlocker applied on those same bolts. I'm wondering if I should use those, won't it make it super hard to remove next time? Since the...

Definitely replace those, don't risk it. Blowing a tire at high speeds on a track might cost you your car and your health/life and that of other drivers.

You will get about -2.25 to -2.3 max with those plates, which is also the recommended track spec by Ford. I was able to go to -2.5 by using those plates + camber bolts. Different car, but my wear looks like this after my most recent trackday. The wear is right up to the indicating arrow, where...

I just got back from the alignment shop, the rear was not worth doing on my garage floor and found a shop that had decent reviews and were willing to let me work with them on the car. To my suprise he got the rear done in 10 minutes and said that the front was harder to get right. I have Ford...

Would it matter much if I left the rear at stock specs? Meaning -1.5 camber and 0.24-0.30 toe in? I would be running -3 camber and 0 toe at the front. Adjusting the front was easy, I tried adjusting the rear but it just isn't doable on jackstands. Local shops don't want to touch it, only some...

Why did you not want to go past -3? I heard that some go up to -4 for the best tire wear. How was your wear with -2.7?