Recent content by joepro

Sorry, gents — I ended up having to go on a business trip to Japan and just got back. Benny, the tube picture will definitely fit, but it has the vacuum nipple in the same location as the GT350 tube. I have one of those tubes as well, and it fits fine, but the vacuum line ends up rubbing...

I have the tall teardrop with MGM, highly reccomend.

This is important- also the tire, as some have more of a "wider" shoulder than others. I running 19x11 vs5rs square, so with the spacers its effectively +27 in the front. With re71rs tires, 305/30/19 and lowered on steeda dual rates, I had to go to -2.9 front camber(steeda plates) and still...

Benny, does the tube come with insert for the carbon filter? Or is that another PN, ty you!

I broke off the vacuum nipple on my intake tube(22 with carbon trap), I have repaired it but want to replace the tube. I neve though this would be hard, but I've gotten 3 different PN from various websites and ford dealers...if anyone knows the actual PN for the intake tube, or has one they...

Just wanted to share for the crowd, I was almost stranded today, my clutch pedal started getting soft, but luckily I limped the car home, abd total failure happened in my driveway... Long story short, I installed the line in March of 2023. I bleed my brakes out about a month ago, and decided...

Apex vs5rs 19x11 +52 square. In going to lower the rear about a 1/4 inch and take some rear camber out...the shop put way too much in at -2.4 in the rear, looks a little goofy.

I honestly did not read this whole thread, but felt like chimnig in any way...I did a bunch of "draggy" 60-130 runs with and without the gurney flap. My best time (M6) with the flap on was 12.4,s and my best time with it off, 11.8s. The times started to diverge at 100MPH...I do not know about...

Just FYI, the dealer called me today and told me they fixed the chirp, they replaced both phaser solenoids on the passenger bank and the phaser replacement was not necessary. The car is in PA and I am in Ca, it being shipped to me in a few weeks, so it will be awhile before be I can confirm it...

Noise isn't the problem, noise that shouldnt be there is...this isn't a well documented noise like the tick, but seems to becoming common. For me anyway, once I can confirm the actuator is working and I'm not losing any performance, it can chirp till the day it blows...I can understand people...

I worked at a dealer for many years, I hate to tell you, the SM doesn't give a crap about you or me, just who is paying...I have a fairly reputable dealer close to me, I'll probably drop it off later this month as I have some work travel planned.

Just to add to this, the op and I have been talking, as my car has the same noise, same conditions. I believe I have traced it to the intake cam vtc phaser, if you unplug it while chirping, it goes away, and cones back immediately when plugged back in. With that said, if I can verify the...

Looks like you are on to something, while no luck with the exhaust actuator, or the 2k trick, if I unplug the the intake vct actuator once the idle recovers the noise is gone, plug it in, comes right back...so it's either the actuator or the phaser from the cam advance during warm up... hope...

If that's what it is, those are much less invasive to change, I know it will throw codes, but I will just unplug that side on the next startup to deactivate the solenoids and see if it goes away...

Atlas1, sorry to revive an old thread, my 22 does the same thing, identical noise, 30 seconds after start, chrip from the pass side front engine. It goes away as soon as it starts to idle down, maybe 60-90 seconds. I'm assuming it's the timing chain tensioner. Being someone that has...