I like a heavy shift knob. The stock one isn’t bad as far as weight, but for my preference it wasn’t large enough. The one I have now is 510g and more fills out my hand.
A heavier knob takes less effort to throw a gear. I like it for that reason. You may have slightly less feel or feedback...
Good luck with your Mustang. I hope all goes well with your modifications.
I still have the power pack 2 and it works with no problems. My car always passes inspections and I enjoy the extra torque. Reading this thread, I did not realize my PP2 has been installed for so long. But then my car...
So you did the relearn procedure (not a simple clearing of the P0315 code)? You might have to try it again. I had to run that every time I loaded a tune on my GT. But that was the only code that popped up for me.
I agree with an earlier post about making sure to have your battery charged up...
I *thought* my car had a battery issue. After getting the battery checked and finding out it was fine, my problem turned out to be the alternator. I had made the assumption that I wasn't driving my Mustang enough, but the real problem was the system was somehow charging just enough to keep me...
The thing I hate the most is when these online retailers advertise a sale that isn't a sale. Instead, they display an original price that is higher than it normally is and the "sale price" is their normal price. A very popular seller of Mustang parts does this and I stopped paying attention to...
93 is everywhere in the Dallas area. I always use it because of having the power pack 2 on my car (91 required). We have 10% ethanol in our gas until you get into outlying areas. I don't mind ethanol content. The mileage takes a slight hit but I like the benefits.
I like that idea. Instant torque and no range anxiety. Seems like a good move for a utility vehicle like a truck. I think it would be great to have that in big rigs, maybe their 0-60 wouldn't be 15 minutes.
If you can fit a tubular spacer with a 90 deg bend in it for the secondary O2 sensor, it will work better. At least it did on an import I owned. And point the bend upstream.
Make sure you changed out any orings when you did that job. They get imprinted or set over time. Cheap to replace. Any joint where the drier was put together could potentially leak (like the brazed joints) so it could just be faulty. How are you checking the leak?
Took it on a decent drive today and with no drama. It maintained 14.1 V, pretty much constant. I’ll say again that I think the car is running better. I was getting an occasional hiccup in the idle but that is gone. The engine just seems to run smoother. Possibly it was causing ignition system...
Cautiously optimistic here. I replaced the alternator today with a new factory unit. Startup voltage is 14.6 initial and settled into 12.9, even with the radio on and the ac running full blast. I left it running longer than the last time I observed a drop in voltage. The car even seems to idle...
I did a BMS reset just in case. No change.
Tried the car again today. Always starts right up, no problem.
Upon initial startup, my dash gage had 14.1V. Within a minute 11.6 steady. Ac on, drops to 10.8. Ac back off and revved to 2k a couple of times back to 11.8V.
(I’ve found that my dash...
Yes and it seemed like carbon mixed with oil. A sort of pasty grainy crap. Only 50k original miles on the car. Bearings are as smooth as butter. May be the oil contamination that did it in.
I took the alternator off and looked at the contacts. Nasty. I cleaned it up and reinstalled. Man, I though I had it fixed. When I first started it I was getting a 14.5V reading at the battery. I then went and switched on the a/c. Down to 11.6. Funny thing, is it stayed steady at 11.6 for the...