Modding a 2018 Mustang GT - Where to start?

wireeater said:

Please stop telling people they will void their warranty for tuning. First off, a dealer can't just VOID a warranty for modifications. Secondly, if his engine happens to break because it actually WAS a manufacturing defect, they have to cover it. Thirdly, not all dealers are anti modifications.

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I am sorry if I pissed you off!

I thought I was just saying something that was considered a common knowledge. If the dealership sees that there is a aftermarket tune or other modification to the vehicle( other then maybe catback ) it could affect your factory warranty.

At least that has been the understanding I guess myself and many ,many others have put into it.
Considering the popularity of the FP power packs if you want to stay just mildly modded.

But, I guess you know better. So thanks for the information.

Einar said:

I am sorry if I pissed you off!

I thought I was just saying something that was considered a common knowledge. If the dealership sees that there is a aftermarket tune or other modification to the vehicle( other then maybe catback ) it could affect your factory warranty.

At least that has been the understanding I guess myself and many ,many others have put into it.
Considering the popularity of the FP power packs if you want to stay just mildly modded.

But, I guess you know better. So thanks for the information.

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i think that his issue is frustration from everyone talking about voiding warranty and it continues to spread. when you cant void the warranty but you can have claims denied. they have to prove the mod caused the issue. some dealerships will work with you to get repairs done regardless of mods.

Lots of info to unpack, so let me break it down. I have the 10 speed auto with performance pack level 1 and active exhaust, I'm looking for a reliable gain in HP. From the information I have gathered, it seems the 2018 IM is good to keep for now unless I want to push serious power? Also getting the GT350 TB alone seems to cause weird idling issues and not much benefit on it's own?

So I will revise the mods list:

K&N drop in filter
Tune

Then maybe wait for the Ford Performance Power pack? Also, I was planing on getting an enclosed CAI anyway, IATs here are 95F+ right now.

Last thing, there's only 3 E85 gas stations remotely close too me, they are all 25+ miles out of the way, and there's none even available by my office. I think going E85 would be a huge pain in the ass but I can always re-evaluate that later

Welcome to the mustang club man! As others have already mentioned, you might want to look into the Cobra Jet manifold as opposed to the gt350, if your looking to make big n/a numbers. The GT350 manifold is pretty comparable to the one thats on your car already.

Opening up the exhaust with headers and a catless mid pipe paired with some e85 and a Lund Racing tune will really wake up these cars

On our 2018 shop car, when we had it setup with the e85 Lund tune, JLT intake and Kooks headers, we made 476whp and 428 wtq.

In regards to data logging vs dyno tuning, data loging your car is essentially as if your tuner is sitting in your car going over the numbers, just a good bit cheaper than a dyno tune. If you go with a Lund tune through us here at Lethal Performance, we can load the initial tune file onto the tuning device for you so that you'r good to go with loading the initial tune so you can immediately start data logging to dial in the tune just right.

Diocletian said:

Lots of info to unpack, so let me break it down. I have the 10 speed auto with performance pack level 1 and active exhaust, I'm looking for a reliable gain in HP. From the information I have gathered, it seems the 2018 IM is good to keep for now unless I want to push serious power? Also getting the GT350 TB alone seems to cause weird idling issues and not much benefit on it's own?

So I will revise the mods list:

K&N drop in filter
Tune

Then maybe wait for the Ford Performance Power pack? Also, I was planing on getting an enclosed CAI anyway, IATs here are 95F+ right now.

Last thing, there's only 3 E85 gas stations remotely close too me, they are all 25+ miles out of the way, and there's none even available by my office. I think going E85 would be a huge pain in the ass but I can always re-evaluate that later

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A flex fuel tune would allow you to switch back and forth from pump gas to e85 as available fyi.

Maybe I'll make the move to E85 later. Problem is I DD the car and drive 300 miles/week, for now I'll put in the performance K&N filter and go for a Lund 93 octane tune. Then do headers, intake, e85 flex tune

Oh I wanted to ask, if I'm getting a Lund tune on 93, does it matter what tuner I use? I see things like BDX, nGauge(which I dont want to remove my PP1 gauges), SCT, Bama and VMP so I'm getting confused.

Diocletian said:

Oh I wanted to ask, if I'm getting a Lund tune on 93, does it matter what tuner I use? I see things like BDX, nGauge(which I dont want to remove my PP1 gauges), SCT, Bama and VMP so I'm getting confused.

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SCT makes the BDX. Your choice is SCT or nGauge, if you go with Lund. Other tuners may allow additional options.

bootlegger said:

SCT makes the BDX. Your choice is SCT or nGauge, if you go with Lund. Other tuners may allow additional options.

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Gotcha, so I have to get the nGauge pod if I go Lund? I understand the 'convenience' factor but it just looks...eh

Diocletian said:

Gotcha, so I have to get the nGauge pod if I go Lund? I understand the 'convenience' factor but it just looks...eh

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You can get the SCT BDX instead. It doesn’t have as many features, but I like the handheld style better.

Diocletian said:

Gotcha, so I have to get the nGauge pod if I go Lund? I understand the 'convenience' factor but it just looks...eh

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Once you load the tune and checked it all out, you dont HAVE to have the gauge installed. you can unplug it and store it in the glove box if you dont want it for any of the read outs it offers. I have a PP also and doubt ill have it mounted any where after i know the tune is GTG

If you're looking for HP gains you can really feel, either boost the car or save your $$$.
I've been in buddies cars with tunes, headers..etc. They all feel barely faster than stock.

I'd say just get exhaust (if you don't have the active exhaust),lower the car and maybe some bigger sway bars for better handling.

If you want real, noticeable HP gains, boost or nothing. Like night and day compared to anything else. But boost is expensive. Mine came boosted (used). If I had an '18 GT, I wouldn't spend the money. If I spent that kind of money for a new GT and it wasn't fast enough stock, then I'd have bought something else. Just my .02

If you want to see what an 18 with intake/e85 tune does see below when I got lost in Mexico. In the first couple of runs, I definitely could've dropped a gear... figured that out in the last run of the video.

[ame]

Nomadic said:

If you're looking for HP gains you can really feel, either boost the car or save your $$$.
I've been in buddies cars with tunes, headers..etc. They all feel barely faster than stock.

I'd say just get exhaust (if you don't have the active exhaust),lower the car and maybe some bigger sway bars for better handling.

If you want real, noticeable HP gains, boost or nothing. Like night and day compared to anything else. But boost is expensive. Mine came boosted (used). If I had an '18 GT, I wouldn't spend the money. If I spent that kind of money for a new GT and it wasn't fast enough stock, then I'd have bought something else. Just my .02

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Boost isn’t desirable for road course duty, unless you are willing to dump lots of cash into cooling systems. Personally, I felt like the tune alone was a big difference. Stock throttle mapping is a snooze fest.

Diocletian said:

Oh I wanted to ask, if I'm getting a Lund tune on 93, does it matter what tuner I use? I see things like BDX, nGauge(which I dont want to remove my PP1 gauges), SCT, Bama and VMP so I'm getting confused.

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You don't have to remove the gauges to runs the ngauge. You can load the tune and take it off or use a window or vent mount