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MT82 hard 1st when humid?

Jobodizo

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Hey guys, I’ve got a ’15 5.0 with about 27k miles on the clock. She’s got an MGW shifter and BG fluid swap. Those 2 mods have mostly cleaned up the MT82’s bad behavior in daily driving. BUT, for some reason when it’s REALLY humid outside I have to force the car into 1st from a stop. Mostly it will clean up its act by the time I make it to work (~40 min commute). Sometimes it affects reverse, too, but I obviously don’t notice it as much. Any idea what could be causing it? Only things I can think of are: 1. water in clutch fluid, but that should mess with the other gears, too; or 2. corrosion or gunk on the selector shaft that eventually cleans up.
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stang17

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Hey guys, I’ve got a ’15 5.0 with about 27k miles on the clock. She’s got an MGW shifter and BG fluid swap. Those 2 mods have mostly cleaned up the MT82’s bad behavior in daily driving. BUT, for some reason when it’s REALLY humid outside I have to force the car into 1st from a stop. Mostly it will clean up its act by the time I make it to work (~40 min commute). Sometimes it affects reverse, too, but I obviously don’t notice it as much. Any idea what could be causing it? Only things I can think of are: 1. water in clutch fluid, but that should mess with the other gears, too; or 2. corrosion or gunk on the selector shaft that eventually cleans up.
I'm having the exact same problem, but more so when it is cold. 1st gear and sometimes reverse you really have to force it into gear. When you are having this issue, did you take notice the car will creep forward in first gear even while you have the clutch to the floor, because mine does.

I've swapped clutches, throw out bearing, slave cylinder, did the BG fluid, have a MGW shifter- still does it. Almost seems like there is a engagement/disengagement issue.

My thoughts are that somehow air is getting into the system and when the brake/clutch fluid gets enough heat in it, air works its way out. We have vacuumed the system several times and each time it is good for a day or so before starting to act up again.

I believe the culprit might be the connection that runs to the master cylinder as it is a known issue to come loose. I believe since the fitting is bad, air eventually gets drawn back in. Steeda just came up with a possible solution.

https://www.steeda.com/Steeda-S550-...er-Supply-Line-Upgrade-2015-2019_p_15616.html

I ordered mine yesterday and will let you know how I make out after installing it.

For reference

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=84132&highlight=master+cylinder
 

BmacIL

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I think you might be onto something there, [MENTION=24492]stang17[/MENTION].
 
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Jobodizo

Jobodizo

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I believe the culprit might be the connection that runs to the master cylinder as it is a known issue to come loose. I believe since the fitting is bad, air eventually gets drawn back in.
That...makes perfect sense. Thank you for the heads up. Mine didn't have any fluid or gunk on the connection, but it did leak a drop of fluid when I tried to push it back on (immediately stopped). Let me know if the Steeda set takes care of you. I think I'm good for now as mine only seems to pop up during UBER humid conditions. If you saw the Derby this year you'll know EXACTLY what I'm talking about.
 

stang17

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I installed the Steeda Clutch Line Kit yesterday and pumped the clutch pedal about 100 times to get any air out that may have been introduced while replacing the OEM unit since I didn't have a vacuum bleeder available.

To give it a true test, I waited until this morning to drive the car so that it would be cold.

Fellas, I believe this is the solution!!!! No issues with shifting into first gear and the remainder of the shifts have never felt this smooth and effortless before. I'm 99.9% sure the stock master cylinder line was the culprit.

I took notice when removing the OEM line, there is an inner fitting/sleeve that is of shoddy build quality. So even though the OEM line was on all the way, I believe this inner fitting/sleeve was not sealing the line completely and allowing air to gradually get pulled back into the system.

Highly recommend this to anyone who has trouble with gear engagement until the drive line/fluids are up to temp.
 

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Jobodizo

Jobodizo

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Sweet...guess I’m spending more money now, lol.
 

ChitownStang

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Hey guys, any video or instructions on how to replace this tube with Steeda?
I've had issues with my MGW and I'd like to try it for $10
 
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Jobodizo

Jobodizo

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I tried the zip tie approach this weekend and saw a marked improvement in behavior. Guess that solidifies it for me, too.

Hey guys, any video or instructions on how to replace this tube with Steeda?
[MENTION=24492]stang17[/MENTION] I'm assuming you just pulled off the lower part of the hose with a cup under it and drain the reservoir?
 

stang17

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I tried the zip tie approach this weekend and saw a marked improvement in behavior. Guess that solidifies it for me, too.


@stang17 I'm assuming you just pulled off the lower part of the hose with a cup under it and drain the reservoir?
I disconnected the end at the reservoir area first and bent the hose downward to catch the fluid remaining in the line with a small cup. I just discarded this fluid and didn't add anymore as I was still between the min/max lines on the reservoir.

I then pulled off the connection near the firewall.

I slid the 2 provided clamps over the new hose, slid the firewall side of the hose on first, then slid on the reservoir side, then slid the clamps to where they needed to be and pinched them tight.

It has been three days in row without any 1st/reverse lock or clutch engagement/disengagement issues.
 

ctandc72

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Sub'd. May wait until they have them through Ebay or figure out other stuff to buy since $7 shipping on a $9 part is a bit much...lol...
 

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Jobodizo

Jobodizo

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I was ordering springs and struts from Steeda during the Memorial Day sale and went ahead and grabbed one of these kits. I haven't had a problem since using the zip tie, but better safe than sorry.
 
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Jobodizo

Jobodizo

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FYI, installed this kit last weekend and the difference was immediate. We had tornadoes and massive thunderstorms this last week with temperatures varying around 20*F and I haven't had a single problem with the clutch.
 

Scott Wilson

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I just did this and it is still difficult at a stop to get into 1st. Now if im rolling it will slide right in, it is only difficult when sitting at a light with my foot on the brake and trying to go into 1st. If I let off the brake and the car olls forward a little bit, it will go in. I have been considering that this is a result of my 1 pc driveshaft
 
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Jobodizo

Jobodizo

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I have been considering that this is a result of my 1 pc driveshaft
I have a 1 pc DSS CF shaft and haven't had any additional issues. I'm assuming you check the fluid level in the master cylinder and pumped the pedal to make sure any air was able to make its way out?
 

Kevin08

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I installed the Steeda line during their sale (wouldn't have bought it otherwise) and have not really noticed any improvement. I guess my factory line wasn't in the critical zone yet to where it would have a noticeable impact.
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