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***Urgent*** Check Clutch Line At Brake Master Cylinder

mustang_puppy

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Been on the forum about 2 weeks and even though the thread says "urgent," didn't look at it until today. Pushed the hose in but it slipped back about 1/8." A couple of drops of fluid sprayed on to the booster but no big deal. I'll definitely keep an eye out for slippage or leaks.
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I installed the Steeda Line Kit yesterday and pumped the clutch pedal about 100 times to get any air out that may have been introduced while replacing the OEM unit since I didn't have a vacuum bleeder available.

To give it a true test, I waited until this morning to drive the car so that it would be cold.

Fellas, I believe this is the solution!!!! No issues with shifting into first gear and the remainder of the shifts have never felt this smooth and effortless before. I'm 99.9% sure the stock master cylinder line was the culprit.

I took notice when removing the OEM line, there is an inner fitting/sleeve that is of shoddy build quality. So even though the OEM line was on all the way, I believe this inner fitting/sleeve was not sealing the line completely and allowing air to gradually get pulled back into the system.

Highly recommend this to anyone who has trouble with gear engagement until the drive line/fluids are up to temp.
Did you just take one end off at a time to avoid getting fluid everywhere?
 

pike bishop

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i did the cup thing stang mentioned; probably less than a tablespoon of fluid...

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my only tip is to try to get the inner gasket as close to reservoir/firewall when attempting to separate the hose end from connection; they don't want to come off ends as a unit. small hands will help too.
 

stang17

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Did you just take one end off at a time to avoid getting fluid everywhere?
Yes. I took off the end at the resorvoir side first. After I had that side off,I tilted the hose downward into a double shot glass to catch the residual fluid within the line. I then proceeded to take off the end at the firewall.

Process was very easy, just took a few minutes.
 

Madtwos

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Gonna be getting that steeda line. MY line was almost off and I have a 2018 with 2k miles.
 

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tj@steeda

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Gonna be getting that steeda line. MY line was almost off and I have a 2018 with 2k miles.
Awesome - these are starting to pick-up steam ... seems to be a nice solution!
 

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Sonofabitch! I saw this thread back before I got my car and promptly forgot about it. Went to check tonight, upper connection was barely hanging on, firewall connection appeared to be seated, but was weeping fluid and had dripped onto the connector just below it. What a half ass design, guess I’ll be changing that out soon.

Do you have to suck all the fluid out of the reservoir first?
 

pike bishop

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Sonofabitch! I saw this thread back before I got my car and promptly forgot about it. Went to check tonight, upper connection was barely hanging on, firewall connection appeared to be seated, but was weeping fluid and had dripped onto the connector just below it. What a half ass design, guess I’ll be changing that out soon.

Do you have to suck all the fluid out of the reservoir first?
no, leave cap on and tight. probably wasn't necessary, but for piece of mind i placed vacuum cap on bottom stem of reservoir while wrestling to free bottom connection at firewall.

the minimal amount of fluid encountered was contained within oem hose.
 

aleccolin

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no, leave cap on and tight. probably wasn't necessary, but for piece of mind i placed vacuum cap on bottom stem of reservoir while wrestling to free bottom connection at firewall.

the minimal amount of fluid encountered was contained within oem hose.
Awesome, thanks for the info! Now I just need to read back through all of this to find the right size and type of hose.

Edit: 5/16 ID EPDM, thanks to those that already posted that. Probably pick some up from the local hose house tomorrow.
 
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ATTFighter

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What's involved in installing the new steeda line? When taking off the stock line won't air get in?
 

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aleccolin

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So... I made this test tonight with a vacuum pump and agitation of the Clutch line.
Clearly with the tube being manipulated, agitated or pushed on/off.. the pressure within the system is lost.

Would Aggressive (track) or normal driving create this movement...? Maybe not, but the leaks are still evident.

I've got an old MightyVac, where did you find the reservoir cap adapter?
 

aleccolin

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Okay just went back an re-read some of this, got some saying you need to evacuate the reservoir first, others say you don't. Not sure what to believe here.

ALSO: If I pull the fluid out of the reservoir I'd rather just replace it with fresh. Looks like the spec is for Motorcraft PM-20 which is DOT 4 LV (low viscosity, ISO 4925 Class 6). Wondering what sort of alternatives for fluid might be out there, a quick search shows Pentosin and Brembo, haven't figured out if Motul has anything yet. There's also ATE-SL6. The boiling points of the Pentosin, Brembo, and ATE fluids are basically the same, can't find what the Motorcraft is.

Edit: Motorcraft is the same also, no advantage I see in switching.
 
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pike bishop

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you do not need to drain reservoir... neither do you need to use a vacuum pump to bleed system after fact.

can only state what worked for me; left cap on and tight, pulled hose at reservoir and drained minimal amount of fluid contained within hose into a small cup. reservoir didn't leak, but i placed a vacuum cap on connection regardless. pulled hose from firewall and replaced with new hose. opened up reservoir and topped off a bit. clutch felt fine to me afterfact, but went ahead and stepped on clutch plenty of times just to make sure. have been checking connections past couple days just to ensure everything has remained sealed and no issues.

jd927u.jpg

n32AB9.jpg

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one last item; measured oem hose at about 8", then cut supplied hose to 10" and it fit just fine.
 

aleccolin

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Awesome thanks for the clarification.

Is the Steeda hose EPDM? Hard to tell from the markings.

Picked up some marine fuel hose this morning but with the plastic liner I don’t want to use it on plastic fittings. Summit has the Tilton (EPDM) hose for less than $5 but it’s $12 with shipping. Steeda’s is $10 but almost $18 with shipping. I know that’s splitting hairs but I hate paying as much or more for shipping as the part, just feels wrong.
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