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BMR's SP089 Front / SP082 Rear "Minimal Drop" Springs: Now sold as a kit (SP763)

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Zelek

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BmacIL said:
I'd highly recommend doing that while you're doing it. Better overall control and better overall ride because it's not floating around (albeit just a tiny bit harsher on big bumps). The billet shock mounts add some more suppleness and reduce bounce if you're willing to go that route (not sure on your budget, but recommend them at some point).

My usual recommended go-to package for most folks is:
BMR SP763 springs
BMR CB005 Cradle lockout kit
Steeda billet shock mounts
GT PP shocks and struts (if you don't already have them)

Rides great, handles great, doesn't break the bank.
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Like anyone would take that advice!!!
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Zelek

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Zelek

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I just got my springs in along with the CB005 and shock mounts. Just waiting on some strut bolts to come in since mine are warped from too much hammering.

Should I clock the bushings right away or let the springs settle some? Does that even matter if I wait on clocking them?

I plan on driving to a DIY shop with a 4 post lift to let me clock all my own bushings while weight is on all 4 wheels. Then I plan on getting an alignment after the car settles some on the springs.
 

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BmacIL

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Zelek said:
I just got my springs in along with the CB005 and shock mounts. Just waiting on some strut bolts to come in since mine are warped from too much hammering.

Should I clock the bushings right away or let the springs settle some? Does that even matter if I wait on clocking them?

I plan on driving to a DIY shop with a 4 post lift to let me clock all my own bushings while weight is on all 4 wheels. Then I plan on getting an alignment after the car settles some on the springs.
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Clock them, then do the alignment. Don't wait for anything to settle unless your schedule forces you to.
 
Zelek

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BmacIL said:
Clock them, then do the alignment. Don't wait for anything to settle unless your schedule forces you to.
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Good because I have limited time to revise my tune in the coming month for free. :thumbsup:
 
Xavier

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I finally installed this kit just a few days ago along with a set of Steeda Pro-Action Struts/Shocks (the non-adjustable variety) and Steeda Shock Mounts. Already had the CB005 kit. Only thing I had a hard time with was getting the rear springs out. I'm very happy with the ride quality and NVH (or lack thereof, it's barely any different). Haven't had a chance to throw it at some corners yet because I still need to clock the bushings and get it aligned. I hope that doesn't end up being a problem later on
 

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BmacIL said:
I'd highly recommend doing that while you're doing it. Better overall control and better overall ride because it's not floating around (albeit just a tiny bit harsher on big bumps). The billet shock mounts add some more suppleness and reduce bounce if you're willing to go that route (not sure on your budget, but recommend them at some point).

My usual recommended go-to package for most folks is:
BMR SP763 springs
BMR CB005 Cradle lockout kit
Steeda billet shock mounts
GT PP shocks and struts (if you don't already have them)

Rides great, handles great, doesn't break the bank.
Click to expand...

This! :headbang:
 

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Would there be any aditional part required for instaling this springs in a 2015 V6?
 

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Had PP dampers, BMR Sp089/82 springs, and Steeda shock mounts installed earlier this week. Gonna try to get an alignment and the torque checked on everything tomorrow because I'm hearing a noise from the passenger rear. Looking forward to getting it resolved and taking some real pictures.
E0D079A2-00DC-4CEB-929A-A24C038B1AB6 (1024x768).jpg
 
BmacIL

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Labradog said:
Had PP dampers, BMR Sp089/82 springs, and Steeda shock mounts installed earlier this week. Gonna try to get an alignment and the torque checked on everything tomorrow because I'm hearing a noise from the passenger rear. Looking forward to getting it resolved and taking some real pictures.
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Make sure that top nut for the Steeda mounts is tightened well. It takes a special socket or a deeper offset wrench to tighten properly. You'll hear clunking if it's not tight.
 

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BmacIL said:
Make sure that top nut for the Steeda mounts is tightened well. It takes a special socket or a deeper offset wrench to tighten properly. You'll hear clunking if it's not tight.
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Is there enough room to check that while the shock is still on the car?
 
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Labradog said:
Is there enough room to check that while the shock is still on the car?
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Yes, but the wheel needs to be off to get enough access.
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