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thehunterooo
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That sort of thing is all proprietary so you would be stuck with whatever it has.
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GT350 Gauge Cluster Thread
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JWS
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Just be sure to remove power by disconnecting the Battery before Connecting or Disconnecting the Cluster. When I removed the 350 Cluster to do some work, I failed to do this and the car would not start when Re-Connected. Disconnected the Battery and tried again and it worked as before.
On the Automatics, you’re not going to get any Indications at all, because the 350 has a Blank Overlay in the Info Display that is not Translucent like the Overlay for the Auto. That is where the PRNDS comes from, the Overlay. Under the Overlay, on the Circuit Board, there are no LEDs that are needed to Illuminate The PRNDS.
I swapped my Overlays, so I have the PRNDS Showing. LED swap may come later, but they are all Surface Mount Components and pretty small. May still need Code for them to actually Illuminate.
On the Digital Gear in the Info Display, I couldn’t get it to work yesterday. It may be that you need to start in Sport Mode with the Gear Shift Lever. Trying to go into Sport while driving wouldn’t allow any Paddle Shift Changes.
This worked earlier, but I don’t remember if it did after I had the as-built 350 Data Programmed. Will check on the way to work tonight. Driving the car to get rid of the 87 Octane in the Tank before doing the Intake Manifold Swap and the Tuning that requires 91 Octane or above.
If you go through the Engineering Test and check all the Cluster Lights, the Fog Light Indictator still Illuminates, but won’t during normal operations. This was lost with the 350 update.
Mode Switches on the Center Console do not work, except for the Hazard Lights. No Mode Menus at all in the Info Display. These were lost with the 350 update. They will probably Come back when I swap the Console Mode Switch Circuit Board for the 350 Circuit Board. Should not need to be programmed.
Hopefully MyColor comes back with this too. I have no accent lighting now and even if it worked, there is no menu for changing the color. Don’t know if I’ll have to mix and match GT and 350 Code to get this to work. When I had the as-built data programmed, the last two lines in the 350 Module would not load. Don’t know what those two lines were used for.
I installed the 350 Center Console Oil Pressure and Oil Temperature Gauges in place of the GT Oil Pressure and Vacuum Gauges. I don’t have a Turbo, so I don’t really find them useful and I wanted Oil Temperature instead of having to scroll through the Info Display. Besides, I’ve got Digital Speed there most of the time now anyways. Swapped the Chrome Bezel for the Satin one that came with the Gauges. Plug and Play. Worked on Start-up. Was expecting the Oil Temp to swing wildly, using the Vacuum Indications. Automatically recognized by the System.
On the Automatics, you’re not going to get any Indications at all, because the 350 has a Blank Overlay in the Info Display that is not Translucent like the Overlay for the Auto. That is where the PRNDS comes from, the Overlay. Under the Overlay, on the Circuit Board, there are no LEDs that are needed to Illuminate The PRNDS.
I swapped my Overlays, so I have the PRNDS Showing. LED swap may come later, but they are all Surface Mount Components and pretty small. May still need Code for them to actually Illuminate.
On the Digital Gear in the Info Display, I couldn’t get it to work yesterday. It may be that you need to start in Sport Mode with the Gear Shift Lever. Trying to go into Sport while driving wouldn’t allow any Paddle Shift Changes.
This worked earlier, but I don’t remember if it did after I had the as-built 350 Data Programmed. Will check on the way to work tonight. Driving the car to get rid of the 87 Octane in the Tank before doing the Intake Manifold Swap and the Tuning that requires 91 Octane or above.
If you go through the Engineering Test and check all the Cluster Lights, the Fog Light Indictator still Illuminates, but won’t during normal operations. This was lost with the 350 update.
Mode Switches on the Center Console do not work, except for the Hazard Lights. No Mode Menus at all in the Info Display. These were lost with the 350 update. They will probably Come back when I swap the Console Mode Switch Circuit Board for the 350 Circuit Board. Should not need to be programmed.
Hopefully MyColor comes back with this too. I have no accent lighting now and even if it worked, there is no menu for changing the color. Don’t know if I’ll have to mix and match GT and 350 Code to get this to work. When I had the as-built data programmed, the last two lines in the 350 Module would not load. Don’t know what those two lines were used for.
I installed the 350 Center Console Oil Pressure and Oil Temperature Gauges in place of the GT Oil Pressure and Vacuum Gauges. I don’t have a Turbo, so I don’t really find them useful and I wanted Oil Temperature instead of having to scroll through the Info Display. Besides, I’ve got Digital Speed there most of the time now anyways. Swapped the Chrome Bezel for the Satin one that came with the Gauges. Plug and Play. Worked on Start-up. Was expecting the Oil Temp to swing wildly, using the Vacuum Indications. Automatically recognized by the System.
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JWS
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After Driving the Car last night, starting in Sport and Drive, the Digital Gear Numbers are not shown in the Info Display. Apparently lost with the 350 as-built load. They worked fine during the original Cluster Install.
Also checked the Mode menus. While some of the menus allow adjustments, they don’t actually do anything. For example, I have installed the LED HUD lights on top of the Dash above the Driver’s Defroster Vent. They mate up to a Connector that was Stowed. This is probably for the Adaptive Cruise Control rather than the 350’s Shift Lights and a Tach Indicator. The LED Module may have a Chip (like the Oil Pressure/Oil Temperature Gauges) that tells the Can Bus System what is being connected. I ordered the Adaptive Cruise Version of the lights because I prefer to have that over the Tach functions.
Don’t know if the 350 Version is the same part number or not. If it is different, the lights may have worked. Because I don’t have the rest of the Adaptive Cruise Parts Installed at this time, the lights don’t work for that either.
The Info Display allows you to change the format of the lights for the 350 functions and control the brightness. That menu works fine, but doesn’t do anything, and the lights don’t go on for the rest of the other functions controlled by the Mode Switches or their Counterpart with the Steering Wheel Controls.
Paddle Shifters still work in both Sport and Drive Modes.
If you’re going to install the Cluster and don’t want to get as-built data programmed or get the mileage changed, I would recommend that you just note the difference in mileage between the used or new Cluster and the original one in your car and apply it to the replacement Cluster later on when you have a chance to send it in to Ford. Just write the difference down in your owner’s manual or maintenance records so you can find it later. It could take up to two weeks to get a Cluster from Ford, so just plan on doing it during an extended down time. You do need to have a VIN to order the Cluster, probably just to make sure you’re getting the one you’re paying for. Don’t know if they program that along with the mileage. Make sure if you order one, it is a VIN from a car that has all the features and options you have or plan to install. Just In Case.
Also checked the Mode menus. While some of the menus allow adjustments, they don’t actually do anything. For example, I have installed the LED HUD lights on top of the Dash above the Driver’s Defroster Vent. They mate up to a Connector that was Stowed. This is probably for the Adaptive Cruise Control rather than the 350’s Shift Lights and a Tach Indicator. The LED Module may have a Chip (like the Oil Pressure/Oil Temperature Gauges) that tells the Can Bus System what is being connected. I ordered the Adaptive Cruise Version of the lights because I prefer to have that over the Tach functions.
Don’t know if the 350 Version is the same part number or not. If it is different, the lights may have worked. Because I don’t have the rest of the Adaptive Cruise Parts Installed at this time, the lights don’t work for that either.
The Info Display allows you to change the format of the lights for the 350 functions and control the brightness. That menu works fine, but doesn’t do anything, and the lights don’t go on for the rest of the other functions controlled by the Mode Switches or their Counterpart with the Steering Wheel Controls.
Paddle Shifters still work in both Sport and Drive Modes.
If you’re going to install the Cluster and don’t want to get as-built data programmed or get the mileage changed, I would recommend that you just note the difference in mileage between the used or new Cluster and the original one in your car and apply it to the replacement Cluster later on when you have a chance to send it in to Ford. Just write the difference down in your owner’s manual or maintenance records so you can find it later. It could take up to two weeks to get a Cluster from Ford, so just plan on doing it during an extended down time. You do need to have a VIN to order the Cluster, probably just to make sure you’re getting the one you’re paying for. Don’t know if they program that along with the mileage. Make sure if you order one, it is a VIN from a car that has all the features and options you have or plan to install. Just In Case.
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thehunterooo
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Oh that is not good. Sometimes when I’m driving I’ll shift out of Sport. I use the paddles 99% of the time odd they would not work.
Funny thing after the multiple times I’ve swapped the clusters I have never disconnected the battery :lol:
Might be an option/premium thing that the car gets upset over maybe the radio?
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thehunterooo
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I contacted one place online and they stated they can change the ODO. I will be sending the cluster out in a few days and hopefully have it back quickly.
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JWS
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thehunterooo
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I sent the cluster out Monday, should be back Friday or Saturday.
[MENTION=8271]JWS[/MENTION] someone on youtube commented that they lost remote start on their auto car (I guess they did what you did and ordered it new, etc). I never use it myself but might be something else. Ill have to test it when I get the cluster back.
[MENTION=8271]JWS[/MENTION] someone on youtube commented that they lost remote start on their auto car (I guess they did what you did and ordered it new, etc). I never use it myself but might be something else. Ill have to test it when I get the cluster back.
JWS
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Remote Start
Won’t be able to check on it until after the Holidays because I’m Powered-Down to remove and swap-out more Interior Parts and Install various Systems Upgrades.
I thought I recalled Starting the Car Remotely since the Upgrade. I had the As-Built Data Modified, which could have made a difference.
Won’t be able to check on it until after the Holidays because I’m Powered-Down to remove and swap-out more Interior Parts and Install various Systems Upgrades.
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thehunterooo
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The cluster came into day and installed it everything that should work is!
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thehunterooo
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So far on my base auto car I can not change the steering feel levels so it should be stuck on the default normal. I usually use comfort as I don't care for the heavy steering but not really a big deal. Without changing the built in data I can not see what gear I am in while using sport with paddles (I think JWS can though if you change the as built data?). Also as mentioned by JWS the car beeps when the at least the driver door is open similar to how you don't turn off the headlights and open the door when the car is off (I think the headlight switch causes that).
The speedo is accurate (1 mph fast I think similar to my old cluster), track apps work, etc
When I am done with my hellish upcoming week I will work on a video and also a written post here outlining what we know. This also means that anyone looking for a digital speedo should be able to swap in a 18-20 cluster (just have to change the ODO which is super easy and cheap). Just would need to make sure it is matching manual/auto/base premium and you can cut the dealer out of the equation.
As for the GT350 cluster anyone looking to do the swap will most likely have to buy it new from Ford which they will program the ODO so you don't have to worry about that step (there are not going to be many used clusters from part out cars).
The speedo is accurate (1 mph fast I think similar to my old cluster), track apps work, etc
When I am done with my hellish upcoming week I will work on a video and also a written post here outlining what we know. This also means that anyone looking for a digital speedo should be able to swap in a 18-20 cluster (just have to change the ODO which is super easy and cheap). Just would need to make sure it is matching manual/auto/base premium and you can cut the dealer out of the equation.
As for the GT350 cluster anyone looking to do the swap will most likely have to buy it new from Ford which they will program the ODO so you don't have to worry about that step (there are not going to be many used clusters from part out cars).
p6cl
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I was the one from youtube I did change the asbuilt data using forscan and could not get remote start to work. Working on the 2018 LCD cluster now but having issues trying to program that.
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thehunterooo
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Ah cool welcome to the forum! I didn’t know you changed the data. How is the digital cluster going?
p6cl
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Slowly but surely
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thehunterooo
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[MENTION=8271]JWS[/MENTION] I bought a GT350 headlight switch and will see if that is what is causing the chimes when the door is open
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