Base Stereo Annihilation

[15RaceRedGT]

I couldn't take it anymore. I first added a small amp and sub back in December and it really helped fill in the bass. But now that my windows are rolled down the lack of volume and mid-range in general was driving me nuts - so I had to do something.

I read many threads on this and other forums, here is what I went with -

1)JL Audio CL-441 DSP \ CleanSweep (to remove whatever factory EQ was there and get a clean, flat signal to the speakers)
2) JL Audio CL-RLC (not pictured - to supply variable low-level output to my existing Sub)
3) Alpine PowerPack KTP-445U - 400w Amp(really just a Power Booster)
4) Pioneer TS-D1730 Components (Front Door/Pillars)
5) Pioneer TS-D1602R Coax for Rear Deck
6) Existing 10" Sub and amp

I put the sub and speakers in and had a buddy at best buy install the JL Audio and Alpine bits.

The result is a dramatic improvement in fidelity and volume. The music now has depth, even at lower volumes. It'll take a week or so for the speakers to break in, and I expect the sound will get even better.

I think the JL CleanSweep DSP and CL-RLC is a must, but you could use any amp or speakers you like to achieve similar results.

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[njarmstrong]

Could you provide some photos of your amp/sub install?

 

[Fox5.0]

LOL, the only reason I'm not installing a sub is I don't want everything to start rattling

 

[TheHydro]

I just bought a clean sweep, front components, rear speakers, and 4 channel amp. Do you know where your installer tapped into the wiring for the clean sweep?

 

[15RaceRedGT]

Could you provide some photos of your amp/sub install?

Here you Go -- the sub was recycled out of our old car traded in for the Stang. It's just a cheapie that we picked up off Sonix but really does a decent job filling in the low end.

 

[15RaceRedGT]

I just bought a clean sweep, front components, rear speakers, and 4 channel amp. Do you know where your installer tapped into the wiring for the clean sweep?

Hydro - Yes first he tapped a remote amp turn-on wire he found in the diagram but it was not Hot as the base stereo has no remote amp. He then used an ignition wire but the sound would go off when the ignition was switched off, but I like the radio to work on ACC as well.

The solution turned out to be he tapped into the #23 fuse on the panel in the passenger kick panel (10A labeled Power Windows and Dome Light). Now the stereo stays on as long as the ACC is on.

If you are installing a sub I would highly recommend the JL CL-RLC as well. It effectively splits the output to the rear, giving a clean output for the sub. The benefit is there is no degradation in the signal to the rear channel and you have a rotary knob to remotely raise\lower the level of the sub. I was in the car for 3+hours today on a road trip and it was really nice to be able to adjust the volume on the sub so easily.

 

[TheHydro]

Thanks for the help. I've tapped into what was suppose to be acc power before and it didn't work so I wanted to get this planned out before I started the install.

 

[15RaceRedGT]

Thanks for the help. I've tapped into what was suppose to be acc power before and it didn't work so I wanted to get this planned out before I started the install.

Yes, good luck. You mentioned that you purchased components for the front channel. I thought I could possibly use the existing wire for the factory tweeter but found a resistor on the back of the factory tweeter,when I removed them. Since the new tweeters use a proper crossover and there is none that is apart of the factory wiring, it was necessary to run a new wire from the crossover to the new tweeter. BTW, I was able to mount the crossovers behind the door panels right next to the speakers.

 

[TheHydro]

Did you reuse the speaker wire for the door speakers or did you run new wire?

 

[15RaceRedGT]

Did you reuse the speaker wire for the door speakers or did you run new wire?

I ran new wire as I do not think the factory tweeter wire is run from the doors, but I could be wrong. I used 16ga. wire, because that is what I had but it was way too thick and would go with 12ga.

 

[TheHydro]

Did you run new speaker wire from the amp to the crossovers you mounted in the door panels? If so how did you get through the miles connector?

 

[15RaceRedGT]

Did you run new speaker wire from the amp to the crossovers you mounted in the door panels? If so how did you get through the miles connector?

I used the factory speaker lead in the door as the Ampd input to crossover and then had to run a new wire back out to the tweeter. For now I ran the wire through a notch where molex connector goes through the body but it is a problem because it is preventing the molex form snapping snuggly in place. My buddy suggested drilling through an unused pin location in the molex connector as a pass through for the tweeter wire but I have not done that yet.

 

[foghat]

I ran new wire as I do not think the factory tweeter wire is run from the doors, but I could be wrong. I used 16ga. wire, because that is what I had but it was way too thick and would go with 12ga.

? 12 gauge is thicker than 16 gauge.

 

[Banjo]

How hard was it to replace the tweeters? Do you have any pics of that part?

 

[15RaceRedGT]

? 12 gauge is thicker than 16 gauge.

Yes my mistake - thanks for the catch,
meant to say 18 gauge.

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