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murphyslaww

murphyslaww

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295's on 19x9.5 wheels are a tight fit.

I think 315's on a 10 or 11 inch wheel will be a real challenge to fit. Might have to go to a tire trailer.



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murphyslaww

murphyslaww

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First Dry runs

First real dry runs. I'm relatively pleased. I don't have experience on Hoosiers to know how it should have gone but, I should be down in the 52's to be competitive. The National tour course will probably be much longer. They are usually 70 second courses out there. I think with new HoHo A7's, a little more experience, I think this thing could be ok, as is, even with just the springs and bar. I may need a rear bar, though. People thought I was hitting the bump stops.

Ended up second in ESP, but was a ways out of first, but would have closed the gap down to around a second if I hadn't blown that last run.


First run, there is a bumpy turn that on cold hoosiers, guess what happens when you lift ?


[ame]


2nd, ended up my fastest run, 56 ish. (was actually a 57.6, not what the display said, but whatever)

[ame]

3rd run, 57, felt smooth, but was slower.

[ame]


4th run, 56.2. probably a 55 or high 54 without the drama. Corded the used 295 19's, left front. I probably have way too much toe out in front. Haven't been able to get it aligned yet.

[ame]



And a little outside video, and the overall event. Short blips of Naranja @ 2:28, and 3:23

[ame]
 
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Adjusted the plates back to stock.

By my Wixey Blade angle measuring tool, I was showing -3.0 at the front with the top nut in the center of the shock tower hole. I'm guessing if that is correct, I should be able to get to -3.5 to -4 with these plates.

The rears are at -3.0 as well with the factory setting still set on the eccentric bolt. I think you can see the camber here at launch.




I'm mounting the Eibach 25mm rear bar this weekend in preparation for the Texas Tour next weekend.

I have 275/35 Hankook RS-3's on the SVE 19x9.5's right now. I'm contemplating dropping from the ESP field to CAM-C and running the streets.

I think I'm going to do a jack stand alignment this weekend as well and at least check the toe.

Brought it back to -1.2 on both sides.




With the kook RS-3's


 
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Eibach 25mm rear bar on.

set it to full stiff and tested it, but it felt really wierd and tight. Moved it to full soft and it feels magnificent. Really responsive, hopefully not too much so.

Stats from their PDF.

Rear

OE bar: 23 mm (0.9 in)
OE measured bar rate: 22 N/mm (123 lbs/in) (so if this is 123 @ 23mm, it's probably only 100 or less at 21.7 on the base)
OE bar weight: 2.5 kg (5.5 lbs) (21.7mm bar was 6.4lbs on my scale)
Eibach bar: 25 mm (1.0 in) Tubular
Eibach measured bar rate: Adjustable
P1: 35 N/mm (198 lbs/in)
P2: 41 N/mm (234 lbs/in)
P3: 50 N/mm (285 lbs/in)
Eibach bar weight: 2.9 kg (6.5 lbs) (I weighed it at 11.4 lbs)
Bushings: New Eibach
End Link: OE
 
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cerv14

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Great runs and writeup! Last weekend we took the CJ Pony Parts 15 GT out with Velgen VMB7s and Nitto INVOs just to see what it could do. The difference with the new IRS is pretty astounding.

[ame]
 

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Great runs and writeup! Last weekend we took the CJ Pony Parts 15 GT out with Velgen VMB7s and Nitto INVOs just to see what it could do. The difference with the new IRS is pretty astounding.

Nice, open course. Looked like fun.

I haven't drivsn a mustang before this, but it compares well to the Bmw's I've had.
 

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Did you actually do a dyno test to get your 533hp/466tq, because that seems really high.
 

65ffr

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Murph, sent you a PM re Spokes.
thanks
Mark
 
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murphyslaww

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Did you actually do a dyno test to get your 533hp/466tq, because that seems really high.
LOL, no. That was just adding up the BS numbers the vendors post for their products.

I am hoping to get to around 400hp at the wheels. With most people dyno-ing at around 385-390, I think that is do-able without headers. I'm leaving Headers, and probably the full ESP build until next year.

Much more than that, becomes pretty unusable in Autocross.
 

Mikeiscoo2

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Its really cool to see some of the weight numbers I posted on your mod list of things to take out and how you put the numbers in there. Its cool to feel like the work I did others took advantage of.
 

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Just curious as to how many miles were on it when you autocrossed it? What are your thoughts/experiences in pushing the driveline during breakin period?
 

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Most of what I have read suggest the most important thing you can do to a car, is drive it rather hard from the get go to set the rings. Machining is so good now that you don't really have to break anything in if everything came from the OEM.
 

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Nice looking wheel and tire combination.
Presumably they are identical for all four corners rather than the staggered pattern of the GT PP wheels.
What tires would you recommend strictly for the street for Summer use?
Also, are the wheels at the outer limit do width to fit the car or can you still go wider if racing classification is not important?
 
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murphyslaww

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Its really cool to see some of the weight numbers I posted on your mod list of things to take out and how you put the numbers in there. Its cool to feel like the work I did others took advantage of.
Yeah, I appreciate the work.

I come from mountain bike racing where everything is measured in grams, so it makes sense that I'd be a weight weenie here too.

I don't like most of the engine bay plastic anyway, and probably will remove all of it.
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