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Updated killer chiller content

Proshop

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The directions Kincaid send you are a joke lol.
My shop didn’t talk to me for like two months after installing mine and all the issues they had with Kincaid. Good thing they are friends of mine and still do work for me even after all the hassle’s.
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Fx2beast

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My shop didn’t talk to me for like two months after installing mine and all the issues they had with Kincaid. Good thing they are friends of mine and still do work for me even after all the hassle’s.
Lmaooo I get why!
 

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Hey just purchased the FI interchiller for my Roush R2650 phase 2 is morning. I'll be installing myself. FI's customer service is amazing, but like KC there will be no vehicle and SC specific install instructions included.

It seems that the concept of the 2 chiller kits is the same and there's already some good info here. I can post some updates here as I go if @Fx2beast doesn't mind me crashing his thread.

Couple questions for those how have a chiller kit installed:

- While daily driving: Are your coolant temps exiting the SC above or below the ambient temp?

- Is anyone still running the heat exchanger with the KC or FI chiller installed?

Science says ditch the H/E, but I'm still curious of the result (or lack of) if the chiller was down stream of the H/E.

- Has anyone with a chiller figured out a clean way to add a 2nd coolant reservoir to the S550?
FI recommends 1.5 to 3 gallons of reservoir capacity. I'd be well below that with the H/E deleted.
 

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@SH!FT I think your 1st and 2nd question go hand in hand. I pondered the idea of leaving the HE in myself. That is where your 1st question comes into play. What are the temps exactly when leaving the intercooler? If they are a lot higher than would the HE in line with the chiller help cool the temps and the chiller then cool them down even more? You then have to ponder how much heat will the extra lines running from the HE to the chiller and then to the S/C exactly pickup? In a perfect world it makes total sense, but in an imperfect world like we live in the motor creates a lot of heat as does the S/C and that heat could be soaking into those lines that are meant to cool things down. I would also take a guess that you would want a bigger pump to help flow the coolant through the extra obstacles.

As for the reservoir question I honestly couldn’t answer because I only have the Roush factory reservoir in place. Maybe @Markuaw1 can help since he does have an Interchiller on his car.
 
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Hey just purchased the FI interchiller for my Roush R2650 phase 2 is morning. I'll be installing myself. FI's customer service is amazing, but like KC there will be no vehicle and SC specific install instructions included.

It seems that the concept of the 2 chiller kits is the same and there's already some good info here. I can post some updates here as I go if @Fx2beast doesn't mind me crashing his thread.

Couple questions for those how have a chiller kit installed:

- While daily driving: Are your coolant temps exiting the SC above or below the ambient temp?

- Is anyone still running the heat exchanger with the KC or FI chiller installed?

Science says ditch the H/E, but I'm still curious of the result (or lack of) if the chiller was down stream of the H/E.

- Has anyone with a chiller figured out a clean way to add a 2nd coolant reservoir to the S550?
FI recommends 1.5 to 3 gallons of reservoir capacity. I'd be well below that with the H/E deleted.
Under normal driving monitoring iat2 is important not so much the actual coolant temp. Yes ditch the heat exchanger unless you plan to install a bypass valve which I didn't because I live in Texas. As far as a second coolant reservoir I know some who combo the ice tank in the trunk makes for a second reservoir and you get better flow.
 

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@SH!FT I think your 1st and 2nd question go hand in hand. I pondered the idea of leaving the HE in myself. That is where your 1st question comes into play. What are the temps exactly when leaving the intercooler? If they are a lot higher than would the HE in line with the chiller help cool the temps and the chiller then cool them down even more? You then have to ponder how much heat will the extra lines running from the HE to the chiller and then to the S/C exactly pickup? In a perfect world it makes total sense, but in an imperfect world like we live in the motor creates a lot of heat as does the S/C and that heat could be soaking into those lines that are meant to cool things down. I would also take a guess that you would want a bigger pump to help flow the coolant through the extra obstacles.

As for the reservoir question I honestly couldn’t answer because I only have the Roush factory reservoir in place. Maybe @Markuaw1 can help since he does have an Interchiller on his car.
I just run the reservoir that came with my Roush supercharger haven't had any issues with needing to add a tank my IAT2 temps are great when cruising around town I did opt for the stage 2 upgrade of the FI innerchiller I can show you a picture of my IAT2 Temps I took while setting at a light on a 96° day I'm very impressed with the interchiller
SmartSelect_20220612-140751_Gallery.webp
 

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Thanks @Fx2beast!
- Do you remember if the AC system has a pressure sensor on the yellow line that can't be blocked by the solenoid, or are we free to mount the solenoid and tee anywhere between the condenser and expansion valve?
1656378917235.png



@Markuaw1
Haha my IAT1 and IAT2 readings are normally opposite yours in that scenario.


@Proshop
Yup, Q1 and Q2 lump together. Although, I'm not curious enough to test out the inefficiency of leaving H/E on own my car.

Another great point that FI made to me is that the H/E creates the major reduction of air flow through the condenser. I plan to fit the chiller directly behind the crash bar to avoid blocking any extra surface area of the condenser.

Sounds like the key to these chiller kits is to do everything possible to maximize the AC's cooling ability, then cycle as much coolant as fast as possible.
 
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Thanks @Fx2beast!
- Do you remember if the AC system has a pressure sensor on the yellow line that can't be blocked by the solenoid, or are we free to mount the solenoid and tee anywhere between the condenser and expansion valve?
1656378917235.png



@Prosport
Haha my IAT1 and IAT2 readings are normally opposite yours in that scenario.

Yup, Q1 and Q2 lump together. Although, I'm not curious enough to test out the inefficiency of leaving H/E on own my car.

Another great point that FI made to me is that the H/E creates the major reduction of air flow through the condenser. I plan to fit the chiller directly behind the crash bar to avoid blocking any extra surface area of the condenser.

Sounds like the key to these chiller kits is to do everything possible to maximize the AC's cooling ability, then cycle as much coolant as fast as possible.
You want to mount the solenoid as close to expansion valve as possible.
 
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SH!FT

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@Markuaw1
Do you have any pics of where your solenoid is mounted? Looks like KC's is on the low and FI's is on the high.
 

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@Markuaw1
Do you have any pics of where your solenoid is mounted? Looks like KC's is on the low and FI's is on the high.
No I'm sorry I don't have any pictures, I took it in to the shop that did my supercharger for the install. So I'm not sure where they mounted it
 

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Thanks. The fact that you can't see it is helpful.
Wondering if the tee and valve are here:

1656437651456.png
 

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@SH!FT sorry I can’t be more help for you obviously I can only provide pics of the KC.
 

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Based on Primo's install that location seems to be the most accessible option for both kits.

FI's solenoid should be quite a bit smaller than KC's, but it is awfully tight by the battery box if I'm remembering correctly.
Plus, installing the high tee by the firewall would make that new split line to the chiller awfully long.

Just reached out to Five Bar Motorsports for some pics of their chiller install.
Curious to see if they figured out a clean way to add a 2nd coolant reservoir to the chiller kits.
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