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IkoIko420

IkoIko420

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Update: I went ahead and ordered new rotors. Since I put too many miles on the ones I had purchased, they were out of warranty from both RockAuto and Powerstop. I bought the
Xtreme Stop Precision Cross-Drilled & Slotted Rotors from AmericanMuscle.com. They arrived today and will be installing tomorrow. I will first look to see if I can see anything wrong with the others. I will let you know what I find/happens. Thanks again for the comments/advice.
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Racerx009

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Update: I went ahead and ordered new rotors. Since I put too many miles on the ones I had purchased, they were out of warranty from both RockAuto and Powerstop. I bought the
Xtreme Stop Precision Cross-Drilled & Slotted Rotors from AmericanMuscle.com. They arrived today and will be installing tomorrow. I will first look to see if I can see anything wrong with the others. I will let you know what I find/happens. Thanks again for the comments/advice.
Make sure that the shield the black plate isn't loose or touching the rotors. My was so when I was backing up it sounded like something was wrong with the rear brakes..simple fix
Any questions feel free to contact me retired FBI automotive tech
 
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IkoIko420

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Update: I went ahead and ordered new rotors. Since I put too many miles on the ones I had purchased, they were out of warranty from both RockAuto and Powerstop. I bought the
Xtreme Stop Precision Cross-Drilled & Slotted Rotors from AmericanMuscle.com. They arrived today and will be installing tomorrow. I will first look to see if I can see anything wrong with the others. I will let you know what I find/happens. Thanks again for the comments/advice.
Ok, so I took everything a part. Put it back together and listened at each step (had to disable the tractionn control). It seems as though it is something in the caliper piston. Once it was back together, the noise didn’t happen until all the brake pressure was applied. When I had it apart, and the axle just spinning, you could hear this clicking inside the caliber. Luckily, it is still under warranty and it will be replaced tomorrow. It seems as though it is something in the caliper piston. Once it was back together, the noise didn’t happen until all the brake pressure was applied. When I had it apart, and the axle just spinning, you could hear the clicking inside the caliber. Luckily, it is still under warranty and it will be replaced tomorrow. Thanks for your suggestion. Hopefully no more noise after tomorrow!!
 

Racerx009

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Why did you have to disable the traction control ????
 

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MSMStannyl

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Interesting. I also ordered Powerstop rotor and pads for my 15' GT (non-PP). Unfortunately, they sent me the wrong front rotors as they had 6 stud holes instead of 5 so obviously those didn't go on. Over the weekend, I did manage to do the rears though. Unfortunately, they F'd up again and didn't send me the correct replacement clips so I had to reuse the old rusty ones. Not to thrilled about that. I did drive the car and did the break-in/bedding and they seem fine. No noise. I guess I'll have to go through it again once I get the fronts squared away. In any case, I've decided I'm going to tear it all apart again once I get the correct clips. That and I want to replace all of the caliper bracket bolts with new ones anyway. Just a huge PITA dealing with this crap but they're working on it and will hopefully get me squared away asap (I ordered through a big third party brake vendor so I don't know if they're the issue or Powerstop is the issue although it seems like it's Powerstop since the part numbers are correct, they just decided to drill 6 holes in the rotor).
 
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IkoIko420

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OK, more information. Man, this is a pain. So, I took tyhe car into a dealership with the thought that it was the caliper. Not the case. They took the rear wheels off and the calipers. They left the pads and the bracket on. When they put the car in gear so that the rear axle would spin, there was no noise... BUT... when they squeezed the pads together onto the rotor (by hand) the noise began. The driver side was not as loud as the passenger side. Again, this is without the caliper on. I have purchased new Powerstop rear rotors (the same that are one my car currently) and I do not know if I am going to put these on and see if the noise is present. I cannot return the rotors if I engage the brakes so I do not know if I want to risk the $110 bucks. I do have a question: Are the rear rotors supposed to have 2 panes and vented (like the image below), or are they supposed to be one plane? Right now the rotor is a one plane design. Any thoughts, advice, concerns, prayers would be helpful. Thanks everyone!
393019.jpg
 

MSMStannyl

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OK, more information. Man, this is a pain. So, I took tyhe car into a dealership with the thought that it was the caliper. Not the case. They took the rear wheels off and the calipers. They left the pads and the bracket on. When they put the car in gear so that the rear axle would spin, there was no noise... BUT... when they squeezed the pads together onto the rotor (by hand) the noise began. The driver side was not as loud as the passenger side. Again, this is without the caliper on. I have purchased new Powerstop rear rotors (the same that are one my car currently) and I do not know if I am going to put these on and see if the noise is present. I cannot return the rotors if I engage the brakes so I do not know if I want to risk the $110 bucks. I do have a question: Are the rear rotors supposed to have 2 panes and vented (like the image below), or are they supposed to be one plane? Right now the rotor is a one plane design. Any thoughts, advice, concerns, prayers would be helpful. Thanks everyone!
393019.jpg
Ummm..I believe it's supposed to be a vented "two plane" design. At least that's how I recall mine being that I just installed last Saturday. Unfortunately, because of all of the mistakes from PowerStop that are yet unresolved, I still don't have the correct brackets for the rear, or the correct front rotors, so my car is sitting at home in the garage and I can't run out and check. I'll check when I get home.

To be clear, I have a 2015 GT Premium non-PP and ordered the full front/rear Z23 kit, with pads and cross-drilled/slotted rotors. Not sure if any of that is different than yours but I was under the impression that all models had the same rear brakes. I notice that you have an EB though so I wonder if that could be the reason??
 

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So I don't have any great pictures of the rears other than the pic I took to send to PowerStop to show that the stupid brackets they sent me weren't wide enough to clear the rear rotors. Now you've got me wondering if maybe there are 2 different rear brake setups and maybe this skinny clips are meant for whatever your single plane rotor is for?

In any case, you can see that the new Powerstop REAR disc is a two-plane, vented rotor.

Rear Pad Clips.jpg
 

sdiver68

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My rears are 2 plane vented. Ordered for a 2018 GT PP1. Everything works great.

Sorry for both of your troubles!
 

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IkoIko420

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So, I changed out the RockAuto rotors on the rear (both sides) of my car this past Saturday. The new ones I put on were from AmericanMuscle. They were the one plane kind and the noise is gone!!!!!!!!!!!! The basic set-up from Ford is a one plane design on the Ecoboost rear brakes (non-performance). The front end make the same noise, but much much softer. I will go ahead and order the front (2 plane rotor) from AM as soon as I have the money. The people at AM were saying that the rotors could be warped to start with from RockAuto. Since the "warranty" from RockAuto is out and their customer service is basically non-existent... I will no longer be using them.

Anyone know if the rotors can be fixed or trued? If not, anyone need some shiny paper weights?
 

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I'm still waiting for this to get resolved. I'm really get annoyed at this point. It's been over a week since I reported to them that they sent me the wrong rotors for the front. I got the original order quicker than they can seem to send me the replacement rotors. Meanwhile, my car is un-drivable. Not sure who to blame at this point. PowerStop, or the company/distributor I purchased from...

In any case, question for the rest of you. Did you replace any or all of the associated bolts? In doing some reading, I got the impression that the bolts should NOT be reused. That they're one time use only. Thoughts? To be on the same side, I ordered all new bolts anyway but was curious.

Lastly, any idea's on torque settings for said bolts? There's a sticky I saw somewhere that discusses all of the different torque settings for suspension and brakes. It called for the following:

- Front brake caliper bolts = 85 ft-lbs
- Rear brake caliper bolts = 24 ft-lbs

Does that sound right? Also, since I've only done the rears so far, I'm a little confused as to which bolts they are referring to. There are 18mm bolts that hold the caliper assembly to the rotor and then, I believe, 14mm bolts that hold the actual caliper/piston to the caliper assembly. Which of those should be 24 ft-lbs and what should the other be? Any ideas?
 

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And btw, here is a picture of my beautiful, 6 lug rotors that are pretty good at being paper weights! Thanks PowerStop!:clap:
Front Rotors - 1.jpg
 
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IkoIko420

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I'm still waiting for this to get resolved. I'm really get annoyed at this point. It's been over a week since I reported to them that they sent me the wrong rotors for the front. I got the original order quicker than they can seem to send me the replacement rotors. Meanwhile, my car is un-drivable. Not sure who to blame at this point. PowerStop, or the company/distributor I purchased from...

In any case, question for the rest of you. Did you replace any or all of the associated bolts? In doing some reading, I got the impression that the bolts should NOT be reused. That they're one time use only. Thoughts? To be on the same side, I ordered all new bolts anyway but was curious.

Lastly, any idea's on torque settings for said bolts? There's a sticky I saw somewhere that discusses all of the different torque settings for suspension and brakes. It called for the following:

- Front brake caliper bolts = 85 ft-lbs
- Rear brake caliper bolts = 24 ft-lbs

Does that sound right? Also, since I've only done the rears so far, I'm a little confused as to which bolts they are referring to. There are 18mm bolts that hold the caliper assembly to the rotor and then, I believe, 14mm bolts that hold the actual caliper/piston to the caliper assembly. Which of those should be 24 ft-lbs and what should the other be? Any ideas?
I idn't use any torque settings, nor did I use new bolts. I just cranked them tight, both the caliper and the and the assembly. If I need to use new bolts, I was not told to do so by AM or any of the garages I took my car to.
 

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I idn't use any torque settings, nor did I use new bolts. I just cranked them tight, both the caliper and the and the assembly. If I need to use new bolts, I was not told to do so by AM or any of the garages I took my car to.
I can't remember where I read that but when I was looking up the bolt part numbers on Ford parts websites, they say "one time use" or "do not reuse". Something along those lines. I did notice that the originals appeared to have blue Locktite on them so maybe that's the reason? I'm definitely replacing mine. Should have the new ones today. It's too cheap not to, to have that extra insurance IMO. That said, I would probably at least add some more locktite to them to be safe.

What concerned me was that I actually snapped one of the factory bolts, trying to get them off. It was one of the smaller ones (I think 14mm) that hold that caliper/piston to the assembly in the rear. Luckily I was able to back out the broken part without too much issue.That's what got me going down the road of replacing them anyway.

EDIT: Here are the bolt numbers for your information:

Front: W716471S439

Rear: W715623S439 (I believe these are the larger 18mm that hold the assembly to the rotor)
FR3Z2C150C (These are the smaller 14mm (I think) bolts that hold the piston to the assembly (and one that I snapped))
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