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[?] '18 Intake Manifold on '15-'17

Cream Puff

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Yeah to clarify my plan is to run the FRPP2 tune, so locking/tuning out the IMRCs isn't an option for me.



Yup, keeping the the IMRCs and trying to get them to operate like factory without CELs on the 18 manifold with the PP2 tune. Everything else on the swap is working (IMRC pigtails wired and functional, evap working) the extra plug is the last thing I need to figure out. I'm slowly shaking it down and am making good progress.

Here's what I've tried so far:

I tried leaving the extra plug unplugged (like previously mentioned in this thread) but it throws a P2011/P2008 code (depending on if you plug in bank 1 or 2). It doesn't always throw the CEL right away, but will show up as a pending code after a short drive. When the car throws a P2011/P2008 code it will drive kind of crappy, feeling flat around 2000-2300rpms. I think it's because whichever bank isn't plugged in will default open while the other IMRC will operate.

Then I tried removing a sensor from the 15-17 manifold and plumbed the vacuum lines in parallel with the single sensor on the 18 manifold. This setup is a little closer as it allows you to plug both sensors in and eliminates the P2011/P2008 codes, and the car feels MUCH better with this setup than the previous setup. The 2000-2300rpm flat/surgy feeling is gone and the top end feels awesome BUT it still throws a P2006 code. I believe the code is because this setup doesn't allow the ECU to either control or sense both IMRCs independently.

I'm pretty sure my next setup will work with no CELs. It's nothing ground breaking, I just think the IMRCs need to be plumbed the same way as on a factory 15-17 manifold (independently) to work and not throw CELs. With any luck I'll be able to test this setup out and report back tonight.

For all of you out there considering moving to a 2018 manifold I can confirm it makes a noticeable difference. The mid-range feels about the same as the factory manifold but around ~5500rpms the power starts to swell and it pulls much harder all the way to redline (7250rpms in my case) which comes fast.

Anecdotally the car seems to sound slightly throatier sounding. :headbang:

Man, I have the pigtails and would really prefer to keep everything working as ford intended it..

But I'm way too impatient to dick around with all that.. lol. If someone hasn't figured out the solution by the time the fresh foot of snow here melts im probably just going to zip tie them open and send it :lol::lol:
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sk8erord

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Man, I have the pigtails and would really prefer to keep everything working as ford intended it..

But I'm way too impatient to dick around with all that.. lol. If someone hasn't figured out the solution by the time the fresh foot of snow here melts im probably just going to zip tie them open and send it :lol::lol:
That's about where I am. I have the pigtails on order, but if I don't have an easy write-up on how... same, just going to send it.
 

re-rx7

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Yeah to clarify my plan is to run the FRPP2 tune, so locking/tuning out the IMRCs isn't an option for me.



Yup, keeping the the IMRCs and trying to get them to operate like factory without CELs on the 18 manifold with the PP2 tune. Everything else on the swap is working (IMRC pigtails wired and functional, evap working) the extra plug is the last thing I need to figure out. I'm slowly shaking it down and am making good progress.

Here's what I've tried so far:

I tried leaving the extra plug unplugged (like previously mentioned in this thread) but it throws a P2011/P2008 code (depending on if you plug in bank 1 or 2). It doesn't always throw the CEL right away, but will show up as a pending code after a short drive. When the car throws a P2011/P2008 code it will drive kind of crappy, feeling flat around 2000-2300rpms. I think it's because whichever bank isn't plugged in will default open while the other IMRC will operate.

Then I tried removing a sensor from the 15-17 manifold and plumbed the vacuum lines in parallel with the single sensor on the 18 manifold. This setup is a little closer as it allows you to plug both sensors in and eliminates the P2011/P2008 codes, and the car feels MUCH better with this setup than the previous setup. The 2000-2300rpm flat/surgy feeling is gone and the top end feels awesome BUT it still throws a P2006 code. I believe the code is because this setup doesn't allow the ECU to either control or sense both IMRCs independently.

I'm pretty sure my next setup will work with no CELs. It's nothing ground breaking, I just think the IMRCs need to be plumbed the same way as on a factory 15-17 manifold (independently) to work and not throw CELs. With any luck I'll be able to test this setup out and report back tonight.

For all of you out there considering moving to a 2018 manifold I can confirm it makes a noticeable difference. The mid-range feels about the same as the factory manifold but around ~5500rpms the power starts to swell and it pulls much harder all the way to redline (7250rpms in my case) which comes fast.

Anecdotally the car seems to sound slightly throatier sounding. :headbang:
Great post! Gd info as I have the same setup. Look forward to what you find and how you make it work.:headbang:
 

Cream Puff

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My 2nd intake manifold is on the way. Hopefully this one arrives in better shape than the first one.
My 2nd one is held up in customs.. So by the time its all said and done I'm going to be 100 dollars deep in customs fees :frusty:
 

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BmacIL

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Looking forward to when there's a guide for all this. Despite knowing the powertrain quite well, my car is a DD and my only car, so I cannot afford it to be down while experimenting, particularly as I want the CMCVs functioning. [MENTION=11090]Livernois Motorsports[/MENTION] doesn't yet have a tune for this manifold, but maybe I can work with them for a day on their dyno ;)
 
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I'm going to model my install as close as possible to the 2018 GT vacuum lines.

1. Brake booster to line in manifold.
2. Evap to the "small" port on right when looking at TB.
3. Line from intake tubing to the middle port on TB.
 

re-rx7

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I dont think a tune is really necessary. There isnt anything to account for that the manifold would cause.
 

BmacIL

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I dont think a tune is really necessary. There isnt anything to account for that the manifold would cause.
Necessary, no, but you can better optimize the tune above 6500 rpm knowing it'll actually make power.
 

Cream Puff

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I dont think a tune is really necessary. There isnt anything to account for that the manifold would cause.
Not really correct.. while the intake manifold itself doesn't change anything tune related. In a car with VCT that is optimized for a particular powerband there is definitely gains by modifying it to suit the new higher airflow and powerband.
 

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S550MG

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My dealer still doesn’t have an eta on the pigtails. Does anyone on here have a set they want to get rid of? Let me know.
 

Cream Puff

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My dealer still doesn’t have an eta on the pigtails. Does anyone on here have a set they want to get rid of? Let me know.
Depends what I decide to do.. if I don't use mine I'll offer them to someone here before returning them.

However fair warning ford chizeled me for 50 bucks for the pair because you know yolo I guess :frusty:
 

taccone805

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I dont think a tune is really necessary. There isnt anything to account for that the manifold would cause.

your running 30% more air which means if you don't tune you will be running pretty lean
 

taccone805

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2015 Mustang GT intake manifold
TB inlet:. 83.75mm
Runner length: 55.96mm
Runner width: 31.46mm

2018 Mustang GT intake manifold
TB inlet:. 86.55mm
Runner length: 58.24mm
Runner width:. 33.29mm
think I'm going to try and fit the gt350 tb. so far I'm the only one to try and do this if it works ill post tomorrow night
 

re-rx7

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your running 30% more air which means if you don't tune you will be running pretty lean
The ecu can compensate. There aren’t any tables for additional airflow. Wide bands are used I believe. The car is gonna flow what it will. You aren’t forcing more flow.
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